Review 268. Whisky Concerto Recital 3.3. Blended Malt 7 yo. 2nd fill Paolo Cortado quarter cask finish. 58.8% ABV

Strip away the peat from Ardbeg: what is left?

Islay whiskies stand out for a reason. Obviously I’m referring first and foremost to the heavily peated icons like Ardbeg, Laphroaig, Octomore or Lagavulin. But even traditionally unpeated (or very lightly peated) malts coming from Bunnahabhain or Burichladdich get noticed. Few distilleries manage to get that amalgamation of coastal notes, minerality  and forest fruit vibes better than a well-aged, sherried Bunna. While Bruichladdich has a profile that distinguishes itself from many others with its combo of grainy and farmyard notes. But when talking about peat an smoke bombs, the likes of Ardbeg, Laphroaig and other Islays will likely be top of mind to many.

So… what happens if you strip away the smoke and the peat? It’s a question I find intriguing and have wondered about in the past more than once, but it’s also one we rarely get an answer to. Sure, Caol Ila used to give us a batch of  their unpeated single malt once a year for years on end. But that yearly ‘one off’ was discontinued as well a few years ago I believe. And with their ‘Blasda’ release from years ago, we (or at least some) did get to try an unpeated Ardbeg. I think Kilchoman once did one too, a happy accident if I remember correctly. But these are all exceptions to the rule and in 99.9% of the cases, a heavily peated, smoky character is what we expect (and want) from those distilleries. From what I understand and the few I tried, these unpeated Caol Ila’s and others were quite decent, sometimes very good even, but are they truly, at heart, what Islay whisky is about? Devil’s advocate here, but  Islay= peat and smoke. That’s pretty much the adage and the unwritten rule.

Another question is: for how long still? If you have the 2026 Malt Whisky Yearbook by you (which of course you have and if you haven’t: get to it already!) there’s a quite interesting (and to some possibly somewhat unsettling) article by Kristiane Westray about the future of peated whisky now that legislation in the UK prohibits the use of peat in the horticultural and agricultural industry. Apart from adding magic to whisky, peat used to be a main component to many horticultural and agricultural products, from potting soil to compost and other soil enrichment products and fertilizers (being rather acidic, peat helps to lower the pH value of soils, making it easier for certain plants and vegetation – rhododendrons, hortensia’s, azalea’s,  …  - to grow and thrive.) The problem is of course that peated soil like we have on Islay and many other places in Scotland and the UK function as a massive natural container storing and locking tight billions of tons of carbon dioxide (CO2) literally into the earth. And for obvious reasons, it’s quite vital that it remains there. Prior to the recent legislation, the peat used in the whisky industry accounted for just  a few % of all the peat that was dug up in the UK – estimates vary between 3% and 6%. With the new legislation in full swing, it is now between 30% and 40% and already there are voices left, right and center putting the use of peat by the whisky industry up for discussion as well. What this means and whether there are alternatives the industry can turn to in case of a full ‘peat ban’ becoming a real scenario, is also tackled in the article.  And hopefully it won’t come that, but even still, a (potential) challenge like this may well trigger experimentation and innovation allowing us to enjoy  our lovely smoky drams for year to come. Anyway…

Whisky Concerto Recital 3.3. Blended Malt 7 yo (2017 – 2025). 2^nd fill Paolo Cortado quarter cask finish. 58.8% ABV – tea spooned unpeated Ardbeg, 153 bottles; app. €100/£80

Ok, this is a bit of an obscure and under the radar release, with only 153 bottles to show.  Chances are not a lot of us will ever try this. But the idea and concept of trying an unpeated Ardbeg and what that means, was too good a topic to pass on. I think this was (co-)released by Whiskybroker, and if it weren’t for the generous soul that is Yuri Moggio (our Italo-Belgian barfly extraordinaire), I never would have heard about it, let alone get to try it. He did gave me the ins and outs on this release, which I’m happy to share. This is the 3d release  (and the most recent one,  I believe) in a series that started in 2024 when a Glenlossie was released that had been matured in Palo Cortado Quarter Casks. Which was quickly followed by a 2^nd bottling consisting of what was rumoured to be tea spooned, unpeated Ardbeg. Then 18 or so months later came this release in the Fall of 2025, which came to be when they finished the other half of that Ardbeg batch in those emptied Palo Cortado Quarter Casks that were used to mature the Glenlossie.

Nose

Floral and grassy. Lots of lemon and white fruit (melon) too.  A whiff of salinity (sea spray), which over time builds and increases leaving a clear and distinctive mark on the nose. The Palo Cortado influence is mild, but adds a pleasant mixture of soft wood and dried fruit notes (apricot, mainly).

Palate

Oh, this is very interesting! Immediately it’s richer and more full on than the nose suggested. The fruit and the sea breeze notes are still there, but I’m getting more woody flavours now too. Quite viscous as well, making for a full mouthfeel with the wood adding some dryness to the texture too. Despite the high ABV of almost 59%, this is very drinkable and palatable neat. If you do add water, it cranks up the volume of everything: the fruit, the viscosity, the salinity: everything becomes ‘louder’ and more pronounced.

Finish

 Salty – coastal and long

Final thoughts

Impressive stuff! Sure, it’s young and youthful, a bit ‘playful’ even, perhaps. But it’s also rich, potent and vibrant. A whisky that wants to have fun and brings plenty to the table. So to answer the question if  there is (still) Islay whisky without peat, I would say: absolutely there is. That said, I sincerely hope these will remain the exception to the rule for years to come. Not because this unpeated Ardbeg is bad, quite the contrary in fact- it’s absolutely gorgeous even  and I would love to try some more unpeated stuff from them and others at some point- but because to me peaty and smoky flavours are just an asset and enrichment to what whisky can offer. Heavily peated whisky was what opened the doors for me, and I dread the day if ever enjoying something like Ardbeg 10 or Laphroaig Lore were to become a faux-pas. This however, is more than a folly novelty. It’s bloody good stuff and well worth keeping an eye out for.