Review 265. Laphroaig 12 yo

Revisiting my epiphany brand: did I fall in love again?

I don’t really dare to think about all the whisky I’ve ever had since falling down the rabbit hole a little over a decade ago, let alone the money I spent. I’ve never really kept score by using a spreadsheet, as for years I relied on my whiskybase account to keep track for me. And while I still try and add newly acquired bottles there, I’m not as punctual about it all as I once was. But suffice to say it’s in the hundreds.  WB suggests about 350 – over a period of some 10 years- give or take a few dozen. Now that’s still peanuts compared to some people, but a hell of a lot more than what any ‘normal’ person would go through in their entire life.

If we rewind even further, another 15 or so years, there was one distillery that ignited the fire. A bottle of Laphroaig 10 yo, which was gifted to my father as a Christmas present by the husband of my stepsister. Until then, I ‘enjoyed’ the occasional single malt – usually something like Glenfiddich 12 yo - in the same way I could enjoy a rum or  cognac: casually and occasionally after a nice dinner or on a night out. As these things go, little time was wasted opening the bottle and after said Christmas dinner, glasses were distributed and being poured.

It was probably one of the best things I’ve ever tasted: dirty, medicinal, seaside, smoky, barbecued, meaty liquified goodness. Between that moment and the time I seriously tumbled down the rabbit hole, I was happy just replacing my beloved bottle of Laphroaig 10 with another, occasionally mixing things up with something like their three wood or quarter cask, or, when I felt adventurous, something like Caol Ila 12, Lagavulin 16 or Ardbeg 10. If it wasn’t peated, I wasn’t interested. And it took me 15 years to fully realize just how much of a short-sighted, ignorant fool I was.

Laphroaig 12 yo. 2025 release. 46% ABV, NC, UCF. Originally "Exclusive to travellers" but available elsewhere too. American Oak Barrels matured. App €55 (£47)

To this very day, I still love that heavy hitting smoky, peaty character in a whisky, but fair to say my eyes are now wide open and I enjoy a lot of different whiskies in all of their unique styles and ways. The one thing which is undoubtedly clear, though, is that my once beloved and adored Laphroaig 10 yo didn’t really pass the test of time. My last bottle, which must’ve been at least 6 or 7 years ago, tasted flat, dull and watered down. Now I’m not shifting all blame on owners Suntory on this one, as obviously my pallet has changed over the years as well, and is now much more ‘aligned’ with and accustomed to things like a minimum of 46% ABV, preferably without adding E 150 A or chill filtering the whisky. Even their more heavy hitting Quarter Cask (at 48% ABV) failed to satisfy me. While it was ‘heavy’ on the smoke and peat, it felt young and superficial – lacking depth and texture. All this while the 10 year old cask strength isn’t always easy to get hold of in my neck of the woods. Which left their ‘Lore’ as a valid replacement were it not for the fact that in recent times it – like so many other whiskies – became too expensive for what it had to offer. All personal opinions here, obviously.

So when late last year seemingly out of the blue this came along – a 12 year old, travel retail exclusive (but not really, apparently) at 46% ABV, unchill filtered and with natural colour – at a very fair price of €55 or there about, no less, it was as if Laphroaig, finally, was getting with the times and released something a true enthusiast and botherer could get excited about.

This has been on my ‘to buy’ list since, and while I am still to actively hunt down a bottle, my fellow Belgian barflies stepped forward once again, providing me with a sample.

Nose

Sweet smoke and peat, with honey glazed barbecue ribs, and with berries, apples and stewed pears in the mix too. The smoke becomes a bit ashy. A bit of iodine and sea spray provide that maritime and medicinal character – maybe not as bold or outspoken medicinally as I remember Laphroaig to be, but rest assured: there ‘s no mistaken the origins here as it’s a classic Islay single malt nose. And it’s absolutely lovely.

Palate

Smoky and ashy. Quite ashy even. Bonfire, charred wood… that sort of thing. The fruit is still there, but now more in the shape (and taste) of lemon / citrus notes. The mouthfeel is a bit drying and the texture isn’t as dense or full-on as I expected (hoped), but somehow suits the whisky quite well.

Finish

Long, dry, woody and peaty – ashy.

Final thoughts

I think this is good, really good even. Perhaps not brilliant, but definitely very good. Is this THE long awaited answer to the lackluster and under delivering 10 year old? I’ll leave that for others to decide, but it’s a big step up and miles ahead of that one in my book. The two extra years in ‘American oak barrels’ (just say ‘bourbon barrels’, already!) may not have provided a whole lot of extra depth and texture, but it does make for a nice and well balanced flavour profile, where everything is well integrated. Taking into account how  their other official, ‘core range’ age stated releases are not delivering – the 10 has become forgettable, it’s cask strength sibling isn’t always available while their 15 year old is usually quite limited as well, comes with 43% ABV and both colouring AND chill filtration, not to mention is easily north of £100, this 12 yo is, in my opinion, definitely setting a new standard as to what Laphroaig can be, and should be!

And on that note, it’s time for a wee Easter break. Enjoy some good whisky and will be back soon.