Review 235. An indie Fettercairn to properly kick off summer

So last week I suggested that sometimes a smoky Islay whisky can be just the thing when summer starts of a bit ‘rocky’, but seeing how the weather forecast is cranked up to ‘scorchio’ once again, something a little lighter seems due for this week.

When it comes to lighter style single malts, there’s choices a plenty: some deliver orchard fruit notes in spades, some have a subtle, almost delicate dairy or grainy character, while others offer herbaceous and  floral notes. In the best case scenario, it can be all of these combined. And while most distilleries these days are, in theory, capable of switching styles and mixing things up, still a lot comes down to the casks that come into play.

Take something like Mannochmore. A distillery that in my opinion excels in making ‘lighter’ style spirit that delivers wonderfully when put in a mix of fresh and refill bourbon casks. Yet it also has the potential to shine when being put into some sherry casks, IF they’re not overly active. Probably the best example of where a lighter style whisky has absolute star potential when treated with different bourbon casks, is Glencadam. While I’m not overly enamoured with their recent NAS releases (don’t get me wrong: I think the ones I tried were decent entry level and fairly priced, but just not something I would be desperate to get my hands on) their 10 and 13 year old expressions are absolute gems in my book.

Having said that: there aren’t that many distilleries who manage to excel in different ‘styles’ of whisky. Kilkerran manages it most of the time with their (usually) dense and heavy 8 year olds while also keeping us engaged with the subtle and layered 12 and 16 year old. Bruichladdich and sometimes Bunnahabhain on Islay also spring to mind, but overall with the 150-ish currently operational distilleries in Scotland, I think you can count the ones that manage to pull it off on a regular basis on the fingers of both your hands. Good new make and good cask policy make for excellent whisky, but good spirit put into the wrong casks can ruin things.

I feel Aberfeldy is another distillery which has a lot of potential to be ‘up there’ as it can be a true honey and citrus bomb, but just doesn’t get the due TLC from Dewar’s to get us excited in its current presentation. Another distillery most of us would be happy to ignore until 4 or 5  years ago, was Whyte & Mackay’s Fettercairn, but with current distillery manager Greg Glass at the helm, things have taken a turn for the good there. While the price setting can be a bit of an issue (€90 or there about for their 16 yo is pushing the limit a bit, but then you can go and double that for their 18 yo. Yes, that one has seen the inside of some Scottish oak in the maturation process but that’s still a hefty premium to slap on a bottle of 18 yo single malt scotch whisky), there’s no denying they have been catering more towards ‘discerning customers’ and enthusiasts in recent times with some interesting and very decent releases. And as long as  their 18yo feels like a bit of a folly in terms of price, we can always look towards indies for alternatives. Like the one I’ll be reviewing today.

Fettercairn 17 yo (2007 – 2024) Cadenhead’s ‘chairman stock’. NC, UCF, presumably bourbon barrel matured with a 5 year long rum barrel ‘finish’. 54.8% ABV, 240 bottles, app. €90 / £76

So what I have here today, courtesy of fellow  Belgian barfly Tom, is a sample from a 17 yo, cask strength Fettercairn by one of the big indie bottlers in the game. At half the price of the official 18 yo, I will add not so very subtly. Usually I’m not very big on rum cask finishes, but seeing how Fettercairn can really be al about fruit, fruit and fruit, I think they might be on to something with this one. Let’s tuck in.

Nose

Yep, immediately it’s fruit a go-go! Orchard fruit of both apples and pears, and white stone fruit of apricot and maybe even a faint lychee note. Vanilla and honey and countering the lot there’s this soft, musky – yeasty grape like note alongside a very subtle forest vibe coming from some grass, moss and oak notes. Overall things remain light and vibrant, yet also subtle and delicate.

Palate

 Again that fruity sweetness, but also a tad peppery and feisty. Those same orchard notes reappear but less of those white fruit notes now. What strikes me the most, however, is how that forest like note jumps cue and claims a prominent spot at the heart and centre of things, making for a somewhat dry and woody texture. With a bit of added water it definitely turns less dry and wood driven, allowing more room for that yeasty-moss like element.

Finish

 Warming and drying with a bit of pepper and spice and a pleasant oaky bitterness.

Final thoughts

This one has a lot of recognisable Fettercairn characteristics, but shows some interesting different takes on what we’ve come to know and love as well. It’s fairly priced, it delivers something pleasant and good quality, while offering me something interesting as well. Affordable whisky that is both good and enjoyable while also being interesting: that’s pretty much all of my main boxes of what I look for in whisky ticked right there.