Review 255. Glencadam 15 yo Reserva de Madeira Cask

We need to talk about Glencadam...

I wouldn’t exactly goes as far as labeling Glencadam as an unsung hero of the Scottish whisky scene, but sometimes I feel as if it’s not that far off either. While quite a few of their core range expressions (the 10, 13, 15 yo) have gained a special place in many an enthusiast’s heart for their subtle layers of grainy-biscuity, lactic – fruity goodness, proving just how wonderfully delicate a whisky can become when left to rest in refill bourbon casks, overall I feel as if those subtleties can be a bit of an acquired taste. Something you need to ‘grow into’ as you go out exploring and discovering in your whisky journey. That said, in recent years it seems they have made a very deliberate decision to expand the core range with a series of entry level, very decently priced (€45-ish usually) different cask finishes (easily recognizable by their often brightly coloured labels). I’ve tried a few of them, and while good and decent (all natural colour, UCF and at 46% ABV, as it should be), I feel they are indeed mostly aimed at people keen and eager to explore and compare, trying to understand what floats their boats and what perhaps less so. I know this might sound awfully snobbish, but I assure you it’s not meant as such.  These expressions serve a purpose, obviously with the idea of selling more bottles, creating revenue and building a wider, invested customer base (distilleries aren’t charities, they are businesses, after all), but the ‘nobility’ behind it, I reckon, is that it also helps to lower the bar for the whisky curious. So essentially a win-win, and they deserve to be commended for that.

In the same light, I feel that Glencadam’s  long anticipated visitor center which opened just weeks ago, plays a part in all this. From being perhaps somewhat of a darling distillery for a niche within a niche, investing in a visitor center is a clear way of lighting the proverbial beacons to let the world know who they are and where we can find them, literally opening their doors for the general public. From what I’ve heard, it’s a top notch center with the experience to match it regardless of how (in)experienced you are in whisky. With the recent vPub about hospitality in mind, visitor centers like these ought to be welcomed and applauded.

Glencadam 15 yo reserva de Madeira (2008 – 2023). 46% ABV, NC, UCF, 5826  bottles and still  available for app. €100-€120.

I picked up this sample at the recent Spirits in the Sky Festival. Knowing how Glencadam tends to be a more subtle Highlander, midway through the afternoon I anticipated some of its nuances would likely be lost on my well tested and challenged palate by then, so I asked for a sample rather than to have my glass filled up. In general,  I am quite partial to Madeira cask finishes and/or maturation, as it lifts the whisky with some of that bold, outspoken flavours you can get from fortified wine casks, yet without completely obliterating the original spirit character. Something I find you sometimes get with whisky matured or finished in rather active sherry casks. So with high hopes, I dived into this one.

Nose

The first impression immediately after pouring gives me a bit of a dusty-woody sensation. Let it sit a bit and it quickly makes way for a lot of fruity richness: pear (and pear drops), sweet grapes and a jamlike blackcurrant, sitting nicely against the characteristic biscuity-cereal sweetness with a dash of heathery honey to it. Countering all those sweet notes, there’s a subtle yet noticeable grassy-sour element. All the while that initial wood dust note remains an equally subtle constant throughout it all.

Palate

Interesting development! A sweet and fruity arrival and then the woody notes come in mid palate which in turn seem to hesitate if they want to hang about indefinitely or rather roll on into that grassy note. The mouthfeel does this to: initially it announces a bit of viscosity but then settles for a medium full and gently drying texture.

Finish

A bit dry and peppery with Glencadam’s signature cereal note lingering on.

Final thoughts

Do I like it? Yes. Absolutely I do. This is layered, medium rich, accessible, pleasant, very well made whisky. Very enjoyable nosing and sipping. Do I like it more than their standard 15 year old? It’s hard to say, actually. It shares similar DNA, but this is richer, and while not necessarily bold, definitely more outspoken. I will say that what got me into Glencadam in the first place, was exactly that light, subtle, delicate character, which  particularly appeals to me in their 10 or 15 yo. And while that’s still here, it has to settle for second fiddle. Which probably was the whole idea – otherwise why go with Madeira casks in the first place. So in short: this is very good whisky, and it makes for a really interesting take on what Glencadam can do and what they can offer. If you’re willing to ignore or look beyond the somewhat hefty price tag (for the record: I’m finding it difficult) I feel this has a lot to offer, but if I listen to my heart (and my wallet), I would very likely still settle for their ‘rather dignified’ 15 yo.