Review 233. Dràm Mòr Spring 2025 release part II: Mannochmore, Glen Garioch and Staoisha

Seeing how last week I already introduced this 2 part review of Dràm Mòr’s most recent release, I’ll try and keep the introduction to a bare minimum. An indie like Dràm Mòr will likely never be the cheapest option when pondering on which bottle(s) to buy – their scale of operation simply doesn’t allow for that sort of stuff. As appealing and interesting the 100 proof range launched by Signatory last year is, releasing cask strength (ish) 10 to 16, 17 yo single malt and single grain whiskies in that £45-£70 price range, we must always keep in mind that in the current climate, prices like these are only possible because a company like Signatory has the depth of stock and the scale of operation  to do so, allowing themselves only a very narrow profit margin.

So waht this series is first and foremost, in my opinion, is a statement, and one that will likely have other companies scratching their heads at that. But it would be more than a tad too simplistic to now go expecting these prices to become a new standard for an entire industry. In fact, those who 're actually able to pick up that proverbial gauntlet, we can count on the fingers of just the one hand: Douglas Laing, Cadenhead’s, Gordon & Macphail (who a few years ago have already taken things more upmarket AND are retreating from the indie bottler game at that), possibly Berry Brothers & Rudd and the likes of Atom Brands too. All the other indie bottlers out there, even the likes of AD Rattray, Hunter Laing or Elixir Distillers simply aren’t in the same ballpark as the aforementioned in terms of scale and stock I think. And scale goes a long way when talking economics, as it has a huge impact on (overhead) costs. So holding up a bottle of indie Dràm Mòr (or Watt whisky, or Lady of the Glen…) and putting it up against something from Signatory, you need to take these things into account.

And don't get me wrong. I’m not suggesting you should ignore these interesting 100 proof series by SV, because frankly I love a bargain as much as the next guy. As I see it, prices like these give us a great opportunity to have an interesting bottle ‘on the cheap’ as well as that somewhat pricier expression from that small indie bottler as well without breaking the bank. And while you could argue that for the same money you could also have 3 cheaper ones from Signatory’s 100 proof range, let’s end the discussion by saying that quantity sometimes impacts quality. Again, by no means I’m suggesting the cheaper option will give you subpar whisky, all I’m saying is that the bigger you are the more leeway you have to occasionally bottle something that is less remarkable, interesting or attention grabbing, or even ‘just OK at best’. A luxury smaller companies simply don’t have, as I explained last week.

Anyway, enough economics, let’s talk whisky…

Mannochmore 13 yo ( 2012 – 2025), first fill tawny port hogshead finish, 53.7% ABV, 243 bottles.

Nose

Looks pink (almost like dark rosé wine), smells ‘pink’ too. Rhubarb, berries, candied orchard fruit,  candy floss, a whiff of nuttiness and blood oranges. After adding a bit of water all things pink dial up to 11!

Palate

Berries, cherries, oranges and wood, making for a pleasant mix of sweet and gently bitter notes. Oily too, making for a medium full texture. After some water it ‘mellows’ out and that soft bitter note turns into a dryness while those sweeter notes remain.

Finish

Medium long, defined by all those berry notes and some softer wood notes.

Final thoughts

While I ‘missed’ that subtle, almost delicate Mannochmore fruity-floral element in this one, what I got in return was a port cask finished (matured?) whisky that absolutely works. If you love your Tomatin 14 or your Glenmorangie Quinta Ruban, this will be right up your alley as well. Very enjoyable and while perhaps not the most complex of whiskies, it makes for a quite lovely fruity, woody, dry whisky that perfectly lends itself to be enjoyed during a mild summer evening.

Glen Garioch 12 yo (2013 – 2025), first fill Madeira barrique finish. 53.6% ABV, 129 bottles.

Nose

Sweet umami notes a go - go: roasted meat, nuts, hard sweet cheeses… over time, it’s the nuttiness that becomes more prominent, intertwined with sweet notes that are getting accentuated by a lovely berry note. So much so, it reminds me a bit of nougat. The nose suggests density and complexity, and what ties it all together is a thick, creamy-lactic element. Absolutely fascinating, absolutely wonderful!

Palate

Oh yes! All that pleasantness from those  full- on sweet  fruit and umami notes return on the palate. Nutty and meaty with again that fresh berry note adding a lovely sweet accent. All of this good stuff on a very dense mouthfeel. This doesn’t need any water, or very little at most. Despite this being quite a complex, layered dram and a bit of a powerhouse, water doesn’t really help to add new layers, quite the contrary even.

Finish

Long, sweet, some umami and berries.

Final thoughts

You always need to be careful basing a judgement on a sample, but this is right up there with some of the best whiskies I’ve tasted in recent times. An absolute cracker!

Staoisha (heavily peated Bunnahabhain) 11 yo (2013 – 2025), first fill white port hogshead finish. 54.7% ABV, 213 bottles

Nose

Well before my nose even reaches the glass, the peat and the smoke already make themselves present. There’s sweetness and peat and clear yet gentle smoke. Think honey glazed roast and barbecue ribs here. Raisins, sultanas, plums… countered by a mellow antiseptic PCP note, leading the way for some maritime / iodine notes. A lot of the classic Islay notes here, will this also make for an Islay classic? Let’s see…

Palate

Dry, peaty and smoky on the arrival, with embers more than ashes. Dried red fruits, with again a bit of that sweetened meat note as well, although it’s quite subtle on the palate. Towards the back of the palate there’s a hint of pepper and wood balancing things out.

Finish

Drying, woody and smoky – peaty.

Final thoughts

This offers everything you could possibly hope to find in a powerful Islay whisky and then some. The white port cask on this one add quite a lot of dried fruit notes, and I’m guessing they provide some of that honey-like sweetness to things as well, which works perfectly with the heavily peated spirit.

Conclusions

With this batch of 6 whiskies, I feel Dràm Mòr managed to ‘cater across the board’. By which I mean they’ve released 6 whiskies where pretty much everyone could find something they would enjoy depending on personal preferences. The absolute fruit basket that is the Glenburgie, the summery aperitif or desert whisky with the Mannochmore, the ‘complex’ umai beast that is the Glen Garioch, the exquisitely fruity, all -but- a- sherrybomb  Balblair, down to the spicy-jammy Dailuaine and the ‘very’ Islay Staoisha powerhouse. It would be near impossible to pick a favourite but If you really twisted my arm I feel it could be the Glenburgie or the Geery. But then again that would mean doing the Staoisha and the Balblair short. And so on. Lets just conclude by saying ‘6 whiskies: all thriller, no filler!’