Glenglassaugh 6 yo, Ben Nevis 8 yo, Inchfad 15 yo.
Last Week, I promised you more (mòr?) about the summer releases from Dràm Mòr. So without beating too much about the bush, I’ll pretty much dive right into it, as we have 3 whiskies to cover in today’s post.
We’ll take it from young to old, but whether the phrase ‘age before beauty’ applies in today’s review, we’ll just have to wait and see. So Glenglassaugh ‘s up first, and I’m not going to lie: when the package with the samples arrived, this one had me quite excited. The reason being I’m pretty unfamiliar with Glenglassaugh. I remember trying one of the earlier ‘Revival’ releases when Billy Walker was still very much at the helm, but as I have literally no recollection at all of what it tasted like, I’m guessing it didn’t leave a lasting impression. I’ve heard positive things about how their whisky evolves, and seeing how Glenglassaugh is still very much a blind spot on my whisky journey, I’m quite pleased to be able to try some.
Now you might know how Glenglassaugh, during it’s nearly 150 years of existence, has spent many of those years a dormant distillery, not to say mothballed. Indeed, from 1907 onwards, it was pretty much permanently shut down for over half a century and when it finally saw some activity again, soon after the whisky loch struck and it was closed down again in 1986. When Billy Walker brought the place back to life in 2013, it was only up and running again since 2008. It was in fact former William Grant distillery manager Stuart Nickerson who saved the distiller from oblivion in 2006. So, seeing how this Glenglassaugh was distilled in 2015, chances are this was one of the final batches under Billy Walker before Brown Forman took over in 2016.
Glenglassaugh 6 yo (2015-2022), 56.1% ABV, finished in a 1st fill Oloroso Hogshead, casknumber 65
Nose:
Incredibly fruity at first – raspberry and strawberry, with quite some sweetness into it, turning it almost into a classic strawberry flavoured chewing gum, which in turn develops further towards candy and rhubarb. It promises a maple syrup-y texture and overall this is very accessible and inviting. Despite its young age, spirit and cask influence are nicely balanced.
Taste
Malty-grainy arrival. The youth shines through initially, but let it sit for a while and it could easily fool you into being at least a couple of years older. Can we see some ID, please, indeed! Rich and dried fruit notes bringing not only sweetness, but also treacle and coffee over a viscous, velvety mouthfeel. Very easy-going and deliciously moreish.
Finish
Bittersweet, medium long with a pinch of wood dust and salt.
Ben Nevis 8 yo (2014-2022), 57.9% ABV, finished in 1st fill PX Hogshead, casknumber 108
Nose
Oily, overripe fruit – that impression of peaking sweetness before going into decay, turning earthy and dirty. Dates and prunes. Cold coffee. Lets’ see what a drop of water does here… more red fruit yet even more obvious how it accentuates the dried and overripe fruit notes. The oiliness and viscosity now almost leaping out of the glass. And this is just the nose…
Taste
An olive-like sensation, very oily and viscous mouthfeel, just as the nose promised. Treacle, toffee and liquorice giving it a dirty sweetness. With the added water even more fatty-oily, with chocolates and raisins. Bold and rich, but never overwhelming.
Finish
Long, with echoes of treacle and salt that keep on lingering.
Inchfad 15 yo (2007-2022), 52.3% ABV, finished in 1st fill amontillado hogshead, casknumber 1076
Nose
Like the Ben Nevis, I’m picking up sweetness from overripe fruit here, going into an earthy funk note with sweet peatiness underneath. Red fruits cranked up to eleven, moving into candy cotton territory. With some water the funky peat increases while the sweeter notes take a step back.
Taste
Nippy at first. The smoke is there, but overall still rather more peaty than smoky. Again that funky fruit note, sitting on a dry, chewy, almost sticky mouthfeel and just before the finish a maritime/salty note shows its head. With the water I picked up a ‘green’ (herbal and herbaceous) funky, almost effervescent note.
Finish
Salty, warm and drying on a soft honey and wood note
Final thoughts
Without blowing smoke into orifices here, I think Dràm Mòr have delivered a batch full of class. The Tullibardines I discussed last week were spot on, and the other 3 I covered today are rock solid as well. I was very pleasantly surprised by the Glenglassaugh, which has ‘Crowdpleaser’ written all over it in big neon letters.
What can I say about Ben Nevis? I’m a sucker for their 10yo and this one is right up my alley as well: rich, big, bold and a bit of a powerhouse and still it manages to be restrained enough to keep things classy and layered.
As far as the Inchfad is concerned: peated Loch Lomond simply works, in my experience. This didn’t blow my socks off the way last year’s 14 year old did with its spot on combo of hefty peat, smoke and subtle complexity but it delivered in its own right: much less of a peat bomb, but rich, yet also subtle, and again complex and layered. I recently talked to Kenny MacDonald on how he sees the future for indie bottlers and he pretty much said that it might become a struggle for some, with the prices of casks and energy costs going a bit mental, but I feel that if Dràm Mòr keep doing what they do and keep their eye on the ball, they’ll have a bright future ahead of them.
For availability of these bottles, please check https://drammorgroup.com/stockists/
So, now that we’re back in full gear, let’s roll into September with a new series. Starting next week, I’ll be having another go at widely available core range expressions that seem to be overlooked. Unsung heroes or downright zeroes, a (rather popular) series I did last year, is back, with a new batch of 4 readily available whiskies you may or may not want to take a closer look at.
My brief opinion: Drám Mór, great whisky, great people!