Dràm Mòr spring 2023 release, part 2: Benrinnes, Speyside and Glen Garioch

As last week’s reviews focussed on 3 whiskies from Dràm Mòr's most recent Spring 2023 release with a 'lighter' profile, I kept what I expected to be the more heavy hitting releases for this week. So, time to find out if my preconceptions are right, I won’t beat about the bush too much, but rather dive straight into these.

Benrinnes 10 yo, 57.5% ABV. Refill bourbon hogshead, 278 bottles, app. App. £75/€90

Nose

Oh, my goodness! This is a cracker! Waxy – oily on linseed and vanilla oil. Honey, some citrus – a classic ex bourbon cask mark – intertwined with the signature funky-farmy, slightly sour umami Benrinnes character. A faint and subtle, almost shy flora-herbaceous note, with a whiff of treacle as well, but all of these lie almost hidden behind that oily, waxy element. This is a treat!

Palate

A gentle fizziness and effervescence. Only now does the near 60% ABV speaks in the form of a prickly peppery note, but even then that grassy – vegetal note stands tall. Quite viscous, again leaning on a umami element. A few drops of water take away the heat, making for a nice balance of sweet and sour notes from vanilla, citrus and even wood.

Finish

Long an drying with a soft, gentle woody bitterness

Final thoughts

I could bang on and on about this, but it suffices to say: this is proper good stuff! A powerhouse, but one built by adding layer on top of layer, creating an excellent, spirit driven flavour profile.

Speyside 8 yo, 51.7% ABV. Finished in first fill muscatel cask, 289 bottles, app. £61 / €70

Nose

Rich, big and heavy on buttery - creamy notes, with bags and bags of sweet spices. The muscatel cask makes its mark here! Raisins, plums, figs… the works, countered by gentle spices of soft pepper and herbaceous notes.

Palate

Equally big and rich, and again he spices lead the way. The rich arrival continues as there’s almost immediately a full-on, bold mouthfeel to this. A lot of dried fruits as well and despite the +50% ABV perfectly palatable and enjoyable as it is. Lush!

Finish

Warm and slightly dry. Not exactly short, but perhaps not as long as I would have expected from such a ‘big’, rich and vibrant dram dram.

Final thoughts

This reminded me a bit of the Tomatin cask strength, and that’s a good thing for sure in my book. There’s this lighter, subtle side to this from what I presume is a bourbon cask, which somehow ties all the richness from the moscatel cask and the spirit together.

Glen Garioch 10 yo, 57.1% ABV, ex-Islay whisky hogshead, 225 bottles, app. £85/€100

Nose

Crisp, slightly sour with a sweet light ashy note to it, like honey glazed meat on a barbecue. Oranges and orange peel, right on the edge between fruity sweet and fruity sour. Surprisingly, I’m picking up something distinctly floral here, like violets. It’s rich, yet restrained. I could happily nose this all night long as it’s so inviting and accessible yet also complex, all in one.

Palate

The peat and smoke are immediately there on the arrival, but are by no means overpowering. Palatable, despite the higher ABV, yet also a bit closed. Time to add water! a bit of dilluting brings out soft garden herbs, delicate stone fruit notes, sitting on a dry-clinging mouthfeel.

Finish

Soft, sweet and long with echoes of smoke, ash and burnt wood but also hints of fruit.

Final thoughts

The Laphroaig cask (this was finished in their ‘Williamson’ cask from last year) is there and adds complexity and character. At the same time this is by no means all about the smoke and peat as there’s much more to it. I wouldn’t put it passed them to have a wee tongue in cheek nod to Glen Garioch who have recently announced that they’ll be bringing back peated expressions in the future and this might qualify as a sort of prelude to what might be. In any case it works a treat, because this is a cracking whisky!

Final final thoughts

So, on the whole, 6 very different whiskies, but they pulled it off. Without taking anything away from any of them, some are pretty straightforward in what they bring, like the Speyside, but do what they do really, really good. Others, like the Benrinnes, the Glen Garioch or the Blair Athol are more layered, bringing depth and complexity to the table. So, there’s definitely something for everyone here, and I have genuinely, honestly have to take my hat off to the Dràm Mòr team as they’ve delivered yet again!

If you fancy another point of view on these, please check out Chris from The Good Dram Show (and thank to my pal James for pointing me in this direction): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x3W9m9G45w4

That rounds it up on the Dràm Mòr Spring release, normal service resumes next week!