Review 248. Getting ready for the OSWA’s, part 1: Ardnamurchan Paul Launois, 2024 release.

From the usual suspects to the dark horses…

The OSWA’s are here! The Online Scotch Whisky Awards are returning for the 5th year running and by the looks of it, it is growing from strength to strength. Roy and Ralfie are burning the midnight oil this time of year as they’re busy assembling a wide variety of input in the form of data and opinions provided to them by more than a hundred online whisky vloggers and bloggers – one of them being yours truly, in order to get as broad an idea on what makes us, the whisky community, tick. Based on this long list, in each of the 9 categories (value, blend, blended malt, non-malt, indie bottler, new distillery, world whisky,  distillery and Scotch whisky of the year) a shortlist of 6 will be put out to the public for everyone to vote on. If you’re reading this on the day it is published, the OSWA’s are launched on Saturday, the 4^th here.

Now here’s a paradox for you. By and large, I don’t care one jot about the entire concept of awards. Mainly because I find the whole idea of creating some sort of competition between movies, TV shows, songs, albums, video clips, or whatever the topic may be (in this case whisky), not just redundant but also slightly ridiculous. And yet, I’m a keen advocate and supporter of the entire OSWA endeavor and what it represents. I won’t get into detail as to how and why as I’ve done that already 4 years ago. And I feel as if everything I said back then, still pretty much applies today. Bottom line: it’s the one tool we, as a community, have to make our voice heard towards the industry. It’s not the opinion of one blogger or vlogger, but the voice of thousands of people. That’s why it matters.

The OSWA’s are not a perfect ‘thing’, as there is indeed the returning criticism of the awards being prone to both a bit of  band wagon / echo chamber mechanics, and the fact that availability and prices are so diverse or even volatile  depending on where you are in the world, that certain brands and expressions will almost always be more likely to score points whereas others might find it hard to get much critical acclaim outside of their selected market(s). Roy and Ralfy are of course well aware of this, and I know for a fact it can sometimes frustrate them a bit as well.

And while it’s good to point out these shortcomings, I feel  they are also missing the point of what the OSWA’s are about. Because what the Online Scotch Whisky Awards are, first and foremost even, is a celebration of the things the community of enthusiasts holds dear: pointing out what we feel is good quality whisky which is available to us, both literally as in terms of prices. And in doing so,  we often acknowledge those producers and bottlers that take the effort to treat their product with integrity and treat their customers with respect, if only by not fleecing us for every penny we’re worth.

 So yes, the echo chamber effect is perhaps something to take into consideration, but even so, we shouldn’t be surprised to see the ‘usual suspects’ popping up over and over when we’re celebrating those decent value, good quality, available whiskies. Because, for one thing, if they weren’t ticking those boxes, they wouldn’t even be on the list to begin with. So if you’re bored or even upset to see those same producers or brands getting nominated time and again, raking in the laurels, I’ll argue you’re looking at it from the wrong angle. Rather than getting upset about Arran 10 bagging ‘best value whisky’ 3 years running, perhaps you should get cross at Speyburn for dropping the ball by lowering the ABV on what could’ve been a strong contender in that category with their 15 yo. Instead of barely suppressing annoyance over Elijah Craig barrel proof or Wild Turkey Rare Breed battling it out – again – in the non-scotch category, perhaps you should be pissed on how Glendronach has rather shamelessly doubled the prices of their 18 and 21 yo expressions in recent years, cashing in on their reputations. Rather than complaining about the OSWA’s being flawed, maybe you should ask what on earth inspired Beam Suntory to deliberately neuter the intrinsic greatness of Bowmore?

So while we’re in the build up towards the OSWA’s, I thought it would be a good excuse to rummage through my sample collection, and pick out a few  - ‘habitués’ and  perhaps outsiders alike -  and discuss why they should (or shouldn’t) get their hopes up. This week’s pick is definitely one of the usual suspects and it comes from the always generous and very knowledgeable Greg from Greg’s whisky guide.

Ardnamurchan Paul Launois 2024 release. Matured in ex bourbon casks and finished in Paul Launois champagne barriques. 57.3% ABV, NC, UCF,  app. €95 - €120. 3198 bottles.

Ardnamurchan has been in the footlights pretty much from the very moment they started releasing their whisky as what they released very quickly got picked up, embraced and endorsed by many. It’s of little surprise then, that they ‘ve made regular appearances and their relationship with the OSWA’s already started at the very first edition back in 2021 – bagging 3 consecutive wins in the ‘best new distillery’ category in years to follow, and then onwards to winning the ‘best distillery’ category last year. And those critical of the OSWA’s will argue that they won that only because  Springbank wasn’t eligible in that category as they too won the ‘best distillery’ award 3 years in a row, effectively ‘benching’ them for one year after that. Be that as it may, it still means Ardnamurchan bagged themselves that award ahead of well-established, loved and respected distilleries like Bruichladdich, Ardbeg, Bunnahabhain, Glengyle, Loch Lomond or Benromach. For a distillery that’s only been active since 2014, that’s quite the achievement any way you put it. And, in my opinion, it’s a case of ‘leading by example’ not just towards other new distilleries, but to those that have been around for decades or even centuries as well.

So, what’s this about then?

Nose

Very ‘autumnal’! Forest leaves, cola cubes and spices with nutmeg and a touch of ginger. Salted toffee and caramel and treacle going into dark, bittersweet honey notes.

Palate

That signature Ardna effervescence immediately shows itself. Salinity sitting against that dark, rich, dense bittersweet honey which leans into a note of treacle and toffee. There’s dark, bitter chocolate to be found as well, sitting on a medium full mouthfeel. There’s a lot going on and despite the high ABV, I find this to be very palatable neat. After adding water, everything gets dialed up even further, making it almost a bit feisty even.

Finish

Long, dry and mouthcoating.

Final thoughts

I didn’t know what to expect from a champagne cask finished whisky, but I’m pretty sure that this wasn’t it. That’s, to be clear, not a negative thing as this one took me by surprise in the best of ways. While it’s arguably one of their more pricy releases, it’s really difficult to argue with the quality of this utterly impressing whisky.

Now I don’t chase down everything they release, and I’m also not of the opinion that everything they do turns into (liquid) gold, but often, very often even, they get it absolutely spot on. A slightly briny, salty signature coastal character with often a fair bit of effervescence to it, which almost always works well with the casks they choose to use. All presented at decent ABV, untampered, and at affordable, fair prices. And you simply can’t rule out the people element here. So many of their team are ambassadors in the true meaning of that word: approachable, lovely, passionate folk who care deeply about their product and the place it is being made in. Not just the distillery, but the entire peninsula – a beautiful yet remote place with little prospects in terms of getting about or work opportunities,  which means the people living there are often facing more than  their fair share of life’s challenges. An essential part of Ardnmaurchan has always been about giving back to the local community. Combine that with the fact that they produce some downright delicious whisky, and you can see why they’ve merited regular spots in the nominations and winners lists.

Seeing how they’re more than  ten years old now, they’re no longer eligible in the ‘best new distillery’ category, it pretty much means they will have to ‘compete’ (I really hate that word in this context) with Springbank again, which will be  no easy task, to put it mildly. I for one have  put their Madeira Cask and 10 year old release forward in the ‘best whisky’ and ‘best value whisky’ category. I’m not saying these are THE two whiskies I’ve enjoyed most this past year, but they are ‘up there’ amongst the best of what I’ve tasted in recent months  and  are therefore at least worthy of consideration in my opinion. Whether that will be enough to make it to the shortlist remains of course to be seen, but regardless it takes nothing away from the impressive name Ardnamurchan has already made for itself.