After I digressed a bit last week about the OSWA’s, it’s time to put the focus of attention back to the series for November and talk about another ‘hot’ whisky. Or in this case bourbon, as this week I cross the pond and strap myself in for what probably is the highest ABV whisky I’ve owned so far.
Elijah Craig Barrel Proof has built quite a reputation for itself amongst bourbon AND scotch enthusiasts alike – that alone should tell you something. Now I’m not exactly a seasoned bourbon enthusiast, not by a long shot, but I do enjoy a good bourbon, if anything to step away from Scotch now and then and explore some other spirits. With perhaps 30 or so bourbons under my belt I’m indeed not overly experienced with the drink, but I’m coming from a Scotch enthusiast’s angle on this one. Trying hard to avoid the cliché that ‘all bourbon tastes the same’, I will admit that while I find that’s exaggerating things, there is some truth to the matter as well, in my opinion. The reason for that is a pretty straightforward one.
Bourbon is arguably even more restricted than Scotch when it comes to the leeway distilleries have to create their product, not so much down to the fact that the mashbill has to be at least 51% corn, but more so because it has to be matured in virgin oak in order to be called bourbon. Now of course what happens during the production process before the spirit gets put into a cask is of significant importance to the flavour and quality, yet there’s no denying the fact that the wood is as much of a key factor for what you’ll end up nosing and tasting in the glass. So credit’s due where credit’s due: the creativity shown by distilleries when it comes to applying yeast, fermentation and mashing, creating a multitude of brands and expressions, is simply mindboggling. Buffalo Trace, Jim Beam and Heaven Hill are probably the best examples here, as these 3 distilleries alone manage to create a plethora of well-known, celebrated brands, a lot of them with different expressions within each brand at that (Booker’s, Elijah Craig, Eagle Rare, Blanton’s, Maker’s Mark, Knob Creek, Evan Williams, Sazerac, Van Winkle, George T. Stagg etc, etc…). Within my limited experience, it was often a case of me dipping my toe in the bourbon pool, enjoying the thing for what it is, and moving on again, bear one or two exceptions. And Elijah Craig Small Batch (indeed a Heaven Hill brand), the regular ’94 proof’ expression is one of few bourbons I’ve replaced in my cabinet over the years. For a 12 yo (that age stament has been dropped, though), 47% ABV whiskey at less than €40, it was punching well above its weight in my book, and with its flavour profile of old leather and wood, treacly-syrupy viscosity and mild cherry sweetness, it really appeals to my scotch calibrated palate.
When -thanks to the awesome community - opportunity came knocking to get me a bottle of that same Elijah Craig, only this time with all guns blazing at 66.7% ABV, at a bargain price at that (this will normally set you back around €80 or up at most European retailers), I wasn’t going to let this one pass me by. Bourbon, maestro, please!
Nose: rich and luscious on leather and cherry notes. Creamy (vanilla and chocolate) and red fruits. Absolutely lovely and despite the high ABV, not overwhelming or aggressive. Adding some water the cherry marches to the front, but then steps aside again to make way for notes of toffee/caramel and bonbons. Rather wonderful!
Palate: leather/old books, pencil shavings and wood. Then the ABV kicks in, and you can take that one quite literally. Hot, peppery spices, but also chocolates and raisins with treacle and toffee. Adding water is highly recommended as this will likely cause damage to your mouth and oesophagus if not treated with respect. Also it helps to develop the flavours even further with that lovely leathery note really opening up now, along with some chocolate and (cigar and pipe) tobacco. As you’d expect and demand from a 12 yo cask strength spirit, the mouthfeel is full and lovely syrupy thick and viscous, to the point of becoming chewy.
The finish is quite long, warming and drying on spices, and while not particularly sweet, echoes those red fruit jam and chocolate notes.
Oh my. Oh my indeed. This is what bourbon is all about. Dense, thick, viscous, sort of bridging the gap between whisky and rum (the good stuff, not that drowned-in-sugar crap you’ll find in supermarkets), with a really interesting development and plenty of character. Forget forking out hundreds of pounds or dollars for the Buffalo Trace Antiques Collection: Elijah Craig Barrel Proof is where it’s at. Excellent stuff: 88/100
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