Whisky Extravaganza, part 8: the pinnacle of whisky (a tribute)

It’s been only a week, but I’ve missed this. Being ill is always a bit of a drag, in any case ( and seeing how I’m a male, it comes with the full array of ‘man flu’ symptoms), but luckily the worst  passed after a few days.  Being on antibiotics, combining medication with strong liquor was somewhat of a no-go, and seeing how my tastebuds took some absence of leave as well, there would have been little point in trying to write down some tasting notes in any case, especially as the aim of this series is still to celebrate those somewhat special drams. I wouldn’t have been able to do them justice, after all. What it does mean is that the whiskies I had planned to cover last week will need to wait for another day (which will be soon as they are a few remarkable drams from Campbeltown, which will make an appearance in December’s theme…).

Even though something of an (involuntary) break wasn’t welcomed  - a wee pauze never hurts, having those 2 odd weeks off the sauce doesn't mean I didn’t regret not being able to kick back, relax and contemplate about a fine dram sitting in the glass. Putting those  impressions and tasting notes into words has become a welcomed bit of personal time, and the fact that there’s actually people connecting with it and engaging with it, never seizes to amaze me. Particularly now, as my life-work balance isn’t particularly how it should be (work has been, pardon my French, a gigantic clusterfuck  for the past 15 or so months and it seems there’s little reason to expect -or hope for- improvement in the foreseeable future), winding down and just focussing on what’s in the glass has very much become a way of cancelling out if not all, than certainly a lot of the daily burdens and bs.

So to be able to discuss all things whisky has, possibly now even more than ever before, become my ‘happy place’, as it very much is about positivity.  After all, the whole idea of this series was to be  sharing and discussing formidable drams, and  in doing so, to celebrate the wonderful people that are all over this community. It’s hard to fathom, but over the years I have been incredibly lucky, fortunate and privileged to  have been sent samples from people close by and further away, living in Norway, France, the Netherlands, Ireland, the UK, Germany, Portugal, Canada, the US… all the way to Tasmania, even! Frankly, it’s mind boggling. So if anything this series is a way to pay tribute to the wonderful thing we’ve got going here, and all the wonderful people that make this community such a warm, welcoming beacon of positivity and friendship. I’m reluctant to name people here, as I’m afraid I will forget to mention those wo have been so generous, but I will mention one person in particular: Roy Duff. He has enabled this community in such a positive way and has put his heart and soul into the vPub, making it a welcoming, inclusive place for everyone who is willing to engage with likeminded whisky folk, regardless of background or conviction.  Without him, I feel it’s only fair to say, this community wouldn’t be what it is today. What Roy has built over the years  around all things Aqvavitae has proved pivotal when we’re talking about ‘the whisky community’. The recent celebration of that very whisky community, with people coming in from literally all over the world during the Glasgow Whisky Festival illustrates  this just wonderfully.

So it seems only fitting that I would end this series with a dram generously gifted to me by Roy. To receive a sample of a 35 year old single malt is next level in its own right. Finding a sample of 35 year old Brora in your mailbox: I am simply lost for words. So to end this series  with a bang: thank you to each and every one of you for the shared drams, the countless chats,  laughs, and banter we got to share and enjoy  over the years. Thank you to all those wonderful folk who took time and effort to ship over samples – I hope I have done my bit to rise to these occasions. And thank you, Roy, for, well, everything! I feel so incredibly fortunate and  privileged to be a part of what this community has turned out to be, and Roy deserves a ton of credit for it! I indeed count my blessings!

Brora 35 yo (1977-2013), Diageo Special Release. Refill American Oak and European Oak Casks, 2944 bottles, 49.9% ABV

Nose

Oranges, citrus and tropical fruit notes (pineapple and banana) with a hint of marzipan. Quite some mineral notes and salinity too with a royally added dash of waxy notes for good measure, and all of those combined  together seemingly open another door as  it evolves into a very intriguing whole of autumnal forest notes with  suggestions of fungi -like umami notes, wet leaves and wood. Some sweetness from granulated sugar, slightly earthy with a very shy suggestion of peat to it. So much happening, but it works and it works exquisitely well. This really is a feast for the senses!

Palate

Oily, waxy  and viscous (making for a somewhat chewy yet anything but difficult mouthfeel), yet at the same time, there’s a dry element too from dark fruits and perhaps some chocolate and coffee roast. The salinity and mineral element (something chalk-like and earthy) returns but what ties it all together imo are the fruit notes that are interwoven throughout the entire tasting experience (and an experience it is!): both lemon and mango, pineapple and papaya, green apple, while the peat (more noticeable than on the nose) presents itself a bit like the dying embers of a fire. It’s… glorious and magnificent!

Finish

 The smoke is upfront but the finish is so long that it gradually makes way for all the other notes to make a last return and take a bow towards the audience. It’s the fruity notes that almost need to be dragged off the stage.

Final thoughts

 What can I say? Grateful? Humbling? Flabbergasting and wonderful? It’s all of those and then  some!  I ‘ve taken several small measures from the sample and each time I feel as if I ‘m doing it short, trying to describe what’s going on. This is without a doubt one of the best drams I’ve ever had the pleasure to enjoy. I’m so glad to have been able to taste this as it indeed is a fitting whisky to sing praise to the whisky community. ‘It’s not whisky until it’s shared’, but this is on a whole other level. And here’s the thing: we all know the reputation of Brora, of old Brora in any case, and it is one of those ‘defining’ whiskies you can cross paths with on this lifelong journey of exploring and discovering. I feel it’s hard to exaggerate the gratitude that is due  towards those generous souls in the community who enable us to try stuff like this, particularly, and here’s the cynical bit about it all,  we can be damn well sure that future Brora will be well out of our reach. Diageo being what it is, they seem dead set to capitalise on yesteryears’ reputation of not just Brora, but Port Ellen as well. Never mind whether or not what is to be released in time to come will even resemble those sought after, revelled and revered releases from the past, Diageo believe they have found themselves the geese with the golden eggs, and my fear is that they will make Macallan look like a peasant’s drink in terms of pricing and presentation. I’m sorry if this is a bit of a grim observation/prediction to end this series with, but if whisky is to thrive, it won’t be because of premiumisation, it won’t prosper just by releasing ultra-high end bottlings for only the happy few to buy and hopefully enjoy (and I’m writing this on the back of the news that Waterford is calling it quits – a distillery failing due to confusing and -dare I say – over the top marketing and branding in terms of their story. Yes, it’s apples and oranges comparing Waterford with Brora, but those distilleries relying on branding first and foremost  - and it seems Brora will be just that -  will likely  also be the first to ‘feel it’ if things go sideways) but because genuine geeks and enthusiasts like you and me get excited about flavour, texture, taste, integrity presentation… and are willing to go the extra mile to scream and shout about, and most important, share it with others.

Next week: Campbeltown Christmas Carols!