Which NAS kicks ass? Part 1: new kids on the block

Easter break done and dusted, it’s time to get back in the saddle and mount the whisky horse again. Back in 2022, I did a series on Non Age Statement whiskies and seeing how these still tend to come in plentiful supply, I thought I’d revisit the theme for another series. I won’t go into great lengths on the pros and cons re the whole NAS approach to whisky marketing (as I did that already in the previous series), as I do feel that what I said 18 months ago, by and large is still valid today. If anything, the whole NAS thing has only grown stronger since, as we’ve seen a cascade of (mostly) NAS releases from many  of  the 21st distilleries in the past 3, 4 years: Lindores, Lochlea, Torabhaig, Raasay, Arbikie, Lagg, Ballindalloch, Glagow, Holyrood, Wolfburn, Kingsbarns… alongside the already well established tradition of NAS releases we see from older distilleries. And as such, NAS releases are nothing new of course, as they’ve been around pretty much since the early days of (contemporary and legal) whisky in the early 19th century.

But back to 2024. Seeing how most of the newly established distilleries from the past decade will be working with stock consisting of 6, 8 or 10 year old whisky  at most, it’s perfectly understandable, defendable even, to opt for the whole NAS approach. Most of them are quite ‘moderate in size and scale, anywhere between a few 100,000 and 1,5  million LPA. Combine that with the significant start-up costs for a distillery, and a price tag of anywhere between €50 and €70 for what is quite young spirit doesn’t seem overly extortionate if the producers are looking to make a return on investment, allowing them to generate cash flow to help them on their way and enabling them to be in it for the long game. If you were to put that 3, 4, 5 year old age statement on a label of a bottle of €60-ish whisky, it would be tough to compete with more established distilleries putting out similarly priced bottles of whiskies twice and thrice those age statements. And frankly, as long as the whisky is good, an age statement is of lesser importance and relevance –in any case most of us by now probably think of it more as a bit of useful and interesting information rather than an indication of quality.

However…

Until a year or two ago, when new and upcoming distilleries launched an inaugural release, they sold like hot cakes, often at premium prices at that. Everyone wanted a piece of it, enthusiasts, flippers and investors alike, the latter two banking on its desirability, the former out of sheer excitement of trying it. During and immediately after the covid pandemic, people had nowhere to go and any opportunity to try something new and (hopefully) exciting was embraced fully and wholeheartedly. I can’t but feel he momentum has since passed a bit, and in any case the excitement of new distilleries launching their first product is starting to make way for a far more laid back approach from punters and enthusiasts alike, even up to the point where some sort of saturation is dangerously close by, at the risk of things  tilting towards a sense of fatigue when it comes to yet another new distillery releasing yet another new release. Of course, there are still some who manage to make a big song and dance of the whole inaugural release thing – Fallkirk going full premium and selling every last bottle of stupidly expensive 3 year old whisky, springs to mind, as well as Lagg, who, given the reputation of sister distillery Lochranza, hit the ground running.

Another one I was quite keen and eager to try was Isle of Harris’s inaugural release ‘The Hearach’. Launched in September of last year and spread out over 8 or so batches, there were roughly 100’000 bottles available (some 12,000 bottles/batch or there about), meaning there was plenty to go around and flippers could bloody well stuff it. Brilliant! Until I saw the price tag…

Isle of Harris The Hearach First Release (2023 release, batch 5). 46% ABV, NC, UCF, matured in Buffalo Trace, Heaven Hill, Oloroso and Fino sherry casks, 12326 bottles. App. €85-€100 and still available.

Given that Harris has been up and running since 2015 with spirit aimed at becoming whisky distilled since December of that year, the inaugural release consists of anything between 3 and 7 year old whisky. According to the MWYB, they’re currently producing some 200,000 LPA, but  have the ability and capacity to double up on that in the (near) future. When this first release launched, it’s safe to assume that a significant part of their current stock was used to make such a big release possible. Which might help explain the somewhat hefty price tag. Whatever the reasons, it definitely put Harris o, my ‘try before you buy’ list, because,  as things stand, I didn’t feel ‘gutsy’ enough to cough up close to 3 digits for a whisky probably averaging out about 5 year old. Perhaps if it would’ve been released at batch strength, I could see the redeeming feature here, but the price tag felt too salty for me to take the punt. People braver than me fortunately did pull the trigger, and one of them - Greg from Greg’s Whisky Guide -  was even kind enough to offer me a sample. So initially I had this one planned to be reviewed last month’s series on ‘pricy, but worth it’, until serendipity brought me a sample of Daftmill to take its place at the last minute. Which, in the end, plays out nicely as this allows me to bridge the gap between the previous series of reviews and the current one rather flawlessly.

Nose

Very fruity – orchard notes, orange, soft lemon… Vanilla sweetness and a funky farm note – not unlike some Raasay I’ve tasted (and enjoyed). A hint of salinity mixed in with a pleasant, gentle sour note. Very layered – obviously young and youthful, but intriguing and quite complex. Impressive!

Palate

Almost everything from the nose returns on the palate: the fruit, the gentle funk… it’s all there, albeit that the sour and astringent notes are more outspoken, although not overwhelming or off putting. Far from it. There’s a clear lactic note a swell, which translates into a creamy, dense and ever so slightly prickly mouthfeel. 

Finish

Long, clinging and salty

Final thoughts

I must say that I am impressed. Obviously this is a sample based experience and therefore more of a first impression rather than an actual review based on multiple tasting sessions, but there’s no denying that this is quite the debut! Already they have managed to come up with a distinctive, characterful whisky, reminiscent (but by no means a copycat) of the style of other west coast whiskies like Ardnamurchan and Raasay. That said, I maintain that it’s too pricy by at least €15 to €20 in my opinion. However, if this is anything to go by, I’m really looking forward to what Harris will bring us in the future. They’re doing a lot of things right, relying on local resources, producing quality stuff from the get go and got the quality and flavour to win over many an enthusiast’s heart. And tongue. And cabinet. You catch the drift. Next week: something completely (and I do mean completely) different!