46.3% ABV, natural colour, UCF, 2020 release, MSRP around £32 - 35 - €40 - €45
In my ongoing investigation into the realm of overlooked, readily expressions, we’re pausing at Islay this week. Now, with all the hype surrounding all things Islay whisky, it may seem a bit of a surprise that there even is such a thing as an overlooked Islay whisky. And yet here we are. Where last week’s Arran Barrel Reserve may have suffered from a case of shooting- itself- in- the- foot- trying- to- compete- with- its- own- sibling, today’s Bunnahabhain faces a similar problem: struggling to stand out in wat is possibly a bit of an overstretched core range. Bunnahabhain have gained quite a bit of a fan base with their much praised 12 year old (which, as you probably know, is quite a-typically Islay as it’s practically unpeated), but the distillery furthermore excels at releasing a plethora of (often unpronounceable) NAS whiskies, all the way from their entry level Stiuireadair, to the Toiteach A Dhà, this Moine (meaning turf, or peat) furthermore added with returning "limited" releases and/or travel retail expressions such as the Cruach-Mhòna, the Ann Cladach, Eirigh Na Greine or the Ceòbanach. And while I appreciate Bunnahabhan’s continuing efforts to provide a free crash course in Gaelic, I fear it’s a bit of overkill. Promoting authenticity and provenance through branding is one thing, but at the end of the day – personal opinion – I feel they don’t exactly help bringing much in terms of transparency (or, rather, ‘understandability’). Now obviously there’s some cool bragging rights to be earned when you let these names roll of your tongue as if you were a born and raised Illeach, but all things considered, a name like ‘Balvenie Week of Peat’, may be a bit uninspired, but it definitely has the higher ground when it comes to knowing wat the bloody hell you are dealing with.
In any case, on with the whisky…
The Moine expression is one of two of the heavier peated core range expressions from Bunnahabhain. The other one being the Toiteach A Dhà (‘The Smoky Two’), which is matured in bourbon and Oloroso sherry casks. The Moine, however, is considerably lighter in colour, leading me to presume this is solely/mainly bourbon cask matured.
Nose
Lovely peaty, while also soft on the smoke. Sea breezy, with (salted) nuts in the mix. Cherries, sweet liquorice, and the ‘harbour-like’ oiliness adds quite a bit of depth, while at the same time there’s a fresh and light, almost delicate element to this. An absolute peach to nose, truth be told.
Palate
Strong peat, with the smoke again playing second fiddle. Bittersweet and a soft salty note. on the tongue there's a distinctive ashy sensation, announcing a dry, medium full mouthfeel. Very enjoyable, but far more straightforward and less layered, in contrast to the significantly more nuanced nose.
Finish
Salty, sooty and ashy and, praise be, very, very long, with the peat echoing on and on.
Final thoughts
The nose is rather excellent, and while I won’t suggest that the palate doesn’t live up to expectations (as I found it still very decent and enjoyable), there’s no denying it’s far more simplistic and fairly straightforward overall. Luckily it makes a lasting impression on the finish. This, to me, is proof there’s still good whisky out there at reasonable prices. Sub €50, and very moreish indeed.
82/100 (good stuff. Not to say spectacular, but more than decent).
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