Those we do not speak off, part 4: two distilleries that are in my blind spot

(for very different reasons)

To conclude this series and to go full circle as it were, I’m ending it by discussing two distilleries that I find myself guilty of ignoring. One has, in my opinion, only itself to blame, the other I can’t really make an excuse for. Obviously, I could be found guilty of ignoring many more, but the two I picked for today’s review might be seen as archetypes of a certain type of distillery, bringing us whisky in a certain signature way.

The first is Auchentoshan, which in my opinion misses many an opportunity to cater to an audience of enthusiasts, and this despite having a bit of a USP in today’s market. I’ll get back on the how’s and why’s in a minute.

The other one is Tobermory. Which I think for the most part is ticking a lot of the boxes in terms of integrity presentation and affordable pricing. Now before you say ‘wait a minute, how can something like Ledaig 10’ not be on your radar?’, let me say that you’re absolutely right and also that it very much on my radar. However, in this case I’m not talking about the peated Ledaig, but rather confessing to often ignoring the other half of the distillery, what’s being released under the Tobermory name. You see, as venerated and celebrated and highly regarded as Ledaig is, so easily overlooked is the unpeated Tobermory. To me in any case. Again, I’ll get back to this.

Now, we have two distilleries here, with totally different backgrounds, doing totally different things. So why is it that I tend to not always pay attention to what they are doing?

In the case of Auchentoshan, it’s pretty clear as to why, in my opinion. Owned by Beam Suntory, this Lowland distillery was, for a long time, one of only two options when you were looking for a Lowland single malt whisky. It seems weird these days, as with more than a dozen distilleries now operating in the region and with almost a dozen more in various stages of planning and development, the Lowlands are arguably at the heart and centre of today’s whisky renaissance in Scotland. And in that regard it seems indeed like a missed opportunity for Auchentoshan, as they were and still are one of few distilleries opting for triple distillation, meaning they produce a particular style of whisky which, if presented right, I am sure could please many a whisky enthusiast, were it not for the fact that they seem to completely disregard this entire segment of the whisky market. Granted, us enthusiasts are a niche market, but we are an increasingly growing group of driven, returning customers, who are often willing to pay a fair amount of money on a brand or product we can get behind. Taking just one look at today’s core range tells us that they don’t seem to be interested. Two age statements at 12 and 18 yo, bottled respectively at 40% and 43% ABV, and two NAS releases (the Three Wood and the American Oak, also at 43% and 40% ABV) and all of these are presented with added colouring and chill filtration. And while they regularly offer limited releases in a natural presentation and at cask strength, the rule of thumb is that you’ll need pretty deep pockets if you want to buy one of these.

Speaking for myself, there is simply very, very little in their core range that even remotely tickles my interest. Much like their sister distillery Bowmore, it seems that ‘middle of the road’ is what they tend to aim for. And what a pity that is. As said, the Lowlands are thriving as a whisky region, and while the likes of Lindores Abbey, Lochlea, Glasgow, Kingsbarns and (for those who can find it) Daftmill are quickly winning the hearts of enthusiasts everywhere, it seems as if Beam Suntory haven’t even bothered to look outside the window of their distillery to notice the change hanging in the Lowland air. And I am not suggesting they should drop their Triple Wood or 12 yo in its current form, I’m only stating the obvious by inviting them to add something to that. Something that could win more people over, something that would encourage us to give them some proper attention. And it’s not about me being a giant snob here, it’s just the enthusiast in me that would love to see a distillery reaching its full potential by releasing something that is a true testimony to what they are capable of rather than the watered down, lacklustre expressions we see today. If Glenlivet can do it with their Nadurra and their ‘original stories’ releases, and Aberlour can do it with their 12 yo non chill filtered release, and even Fettercairn have gotten the message in recent years, than surely some part of Auchentoshan’s 2.3 mio LPA capacity can be put to good use as well?!

Are you still with me? Time to put away the grumpy rant hat and attach the stone of shame. Tobermory. I already stated that I am very aware of and familiar with Ledaig. The 10 yo is a very well-priced, excellent value quality sipper, the Sinclair Rioja cask is a downright crowdpleaser and the 18 yo is, in my opinion, jaw droppingly good stuff. As for its unpeated sibling, Tobermory takes on a solid KISS (keep it simple, stupid) approach as the core range consists of only their 12 yo expression. In recent years, there have of course been other releases as well, like the various 15 yo’s and, just last year, a 21 yo expression. But given the outturn of these releases, I wouldn’t go as far as labelling these ‘core range’. Not unless you feel as if the Springbank 21 yo is part of a core range too, that is. When you are a relatively small distillery (around 1 mio LPA) and you split things up between a peated and a non-peated range, choices need to be made if you want to ensure longevity of your products. For years, the production was a 50/50 split between Tobermory and Ledaig, but given the success of the peated expression, it’s now more like a 30/70 split, and in the future these odds could change even more in favour of the Ledaig releases. This careful approach to not overdo thing when it comes to establishing a core range becomes even more apparent if you take a step back and put the Tobermory distillery into a broader perspective. Before Burn Stewart (later Distell) gained ownership in 1993, the Mull distillery was a bit like a rudderless ship. It may have been founded in the late 18th century, but during those + 200 year it was often passed around from one owner to the next, with sometimes decades and decades of mothballing in between periods of being operative. When Burn Stewart turned the distillery around in the 1990’s, they faced quite the challenge to turn things around for the distillery. Needless to say, with such unstructured and unsuccessful attempts to get Tobermory up and running during a large part of the 20th century, the quality was anything but a given in those days. Believe me, I’ve tried. (Side note: If you ever stumble upon a yesteryear expression from Tobermory/Ledaig, particularly one that was distilled in the late 1980’s - early 1990’s, my sound advice would be to try before you buy. Some of those releases are, pardon my French, utter pish.)

But look where they are today! Particularly the peated Ledaig has become a favourite to many enthusiasts, and rightfully so. But for whatever reason, (and I’m pretty sure I’m not alone on this one) I find myself often completely ignoring the ‘other half’ of Tobermory. And truth be told, I couldn’t really give you a proper explanation as to why. The best I can come up with is that it’s because I found the old 10 yo, the current 12 yo’s predecessor, a bit ‘meh’? Completely unfair on my behalf. And looking at what it offers today with a 12 yo, non-chill filtered, natural colour, 46.3% ABV whisky retailing around €45-€55: it seems like I’m being the daft one here.

It seems maybe not fitting, but definitely illustrative that for today’s review I’ll need to rely on two indie releases rather than official bottlings from both these distilleries. Anyway…

Auchentoshan 10 year old (January 2012 – February 2022), The Cask Wizard. 53.3% ABV, NC, UCF, n recioto cask finish, app. €90

Nose

Loud and bold - tannins and wine notes are indeed noticeable. Blackcurrant and berries, even going into cassis notes. Dense on vanilla sticks and cherries. A few drops of water and it’s as if the cherry sweetness now erupts completely, while a grassy, floral undertone adds depth and complexity.

Palate

The ABV shows as on the arrival it’s a bit hot and peppery. There’s treacle, syrup and chocolate sitting on a dense, oily mouthfeel. Adding water takes the edge off things and brings out the treacle, adding hints of cola cubes.

Finish

Warm, bitter-sweet, with a lingering wine note.

Final thoughts

A very enjoyable whisky, and something that would go down an absolute treat in this gloomy autumn weather. That said, it’s not the first time I’ve come across a whisky from a German indie bottler where the result is a very cask driven dram. This Recioto finished Auchentoshan is no exception. I can’t help but feel that this is almost all about the Recioto cask (a sweet, dry red wine from the region of Verona in the north of Italy) and less about the Auchentoshan. From a personal point of view, I like it when a whisky shows some spirit character as well, but that’s just me.

Tobermory 21 yo (1994-2016), Master Of Malt, refill hogshead, NC, UCF, 56.9% ABV, € 130 but sold out

Before you point out that there’s, well, little point of reviewing a 2016 release, the public secret about these releases from MoM is that they’re rebottled stuff from That Boutique-y Whisky Company which was rereleased late last year if I’m not mistaken. In any case; I can already applaud those who managed to snag a 21 year old, cask strength whisky for about €130. Because in today’s market (and probably yesterday’s too), that counts as an absolute steal! Which brings me to a shout out for Nick Gascoyne who was kind enough to share a generous sample of this one with me.

Nose

Creamy – herbaceous, a soft sweet funk coming from a mixture of sweet cheese, apricot jam and linseed oil going into a waxy - leathery note. Usually with cask strength whiskies, you can get this sort of peppery-prickly note, but there’s no sign whatsoever of the higher ABV here. On the nose it has a wonderful, inviting complexity, bringing something very layered and balanced with superbly integrated notes. I could happily sit back and nose this all evening.

Palate

Initially, there now is indeed a bit of a prickle from the ABV, but that passes quickly. Frankly: this is lovely straight off the bat! Waxy and oily, subdued green fruit notes of stewed pear and apple. Some darker note of soft treacle and syrup with just a hint of a coastal salinity singing quietly in the back. All of this absolutely palatable at 56.9% ABV, I will add! With a carefully added drop of water, it opens up even further, bringing even more depth and complexity to the party with those funky fruit notes and that oily waxiness.

Finish

Long and stickly with echoes of treacle and syrup.

Final Thoughts

An absolutely gorgeous, sensational whisky, this! I should have known Tobermory at a higher age could be on another level, as last year’s Dràm Mòr’s 25 yo expression also knocked me on my backside. The balance on this one is simply spot on – a near perfect harmony between cask and spirit and testimony of what Tobermory is capable of. Simply superb and from where I’m sitting: this is what whisky is all about!

In any case, I can solemnly vouch here and now that in the case of Tobermory I will be paying closer attention to what they are releasing. As for Auchentoshan, they will need to up their game in terms of presentation. Not just to have me on board with what they’re doing, but even in general. There’s nothing wrong with catering to a more casual and occasional customer, but if that’s all you’re about, I feel you are taking a big risk by ignoring the more invested spectrum of the whisky market. With so much new distilleries out there who are putting quality upfront, delivering the best product they possibly can, not getting on board with this idea might even make you redundant and obsolete in the long run. The best example here I feel is Arran, who back in the nineties started out with the idea of catering primarily for the blend market, but quickly picked up on the whole concept of bringing a quality product at reasonable prices. And of course I’m aware of the fact that not every decision is made at Auchentoshan, but rather at Beam Suntory HQ, and it’s far more difficult to have an ocean liner alter its course than it is a small sailboat, but even so: give us something we can rave about, and I can pretty much guarantee that the community will do your marketing for you!

And on that bombshell, it’s time to wave this series goodbye! Coming next week/month, I’ll be looking at the year that was.