Those we do not speak of, part 3: an overlooked distillery by an overlooked indie bottler

In my previous review I pondered on what lifts a distillery from a mere whisky production plant into a celebrated icon and ambassador of Scotland’s national drink (apart from Irn Bru, obviously), arguing that it likely takes a combination of quality and availability as base ingredients, mixed in with a fair amount of advertising, be it through word of mouth, clever marketing or both. Could the same be said, I wonder, about independent bottlers? Possibly, but maybe only up to a point? In today’s landscape, it seems as if the market for bottlers is even more scattered and niche than that of official releases, especially when it seems that, despite the prices for casks skyrocketing, until recently there was a new indie bottler popping up every other week. For those new small, independent bottlers, they need to ta take things from strength to strength, building their reputation and clientele one release at a time, with very little margin for error as a consequence. Release some mediocre or sub-par bottles and chances are you’ll need to start from scratch, with a distinct possibility there won’t be a third chance to get things right. It’s very much like an acrobat balancing on a thin rope 30 ft above the ground, dodging obstacles like the quality to cost ratio, profit margins and distribution costs along the way.

Then there are those on the other side of the spectrum. Those bottlers who, have become very successful over the years, up to the point where they are now pretty much synonymous with our understanding of what independent bottlers are. Those household names like Douglas Laing, Cadenhead’s, Signatory, Berry Brothers & Rudd and, for the time being, Gordon & MacPhail.

And in between those two there are dozens and dozens of often long established companies who have built a name and reputation in certain markets. Often these too have a dedicated following in the markets where they are available but, due to stock or distribution reasons, are often little more than names of unobtanium releases, merely the stuff of stories to many others. Names like Alistair Walker, Thompson Brothers, Elixir, Malts of Scotland, Adelphi, Decadent Drinks, Blackadder, James Eadie, Lady of the Glen, and so on. Familiar names to many if not most whisky lovers, but in many markets something like a white rhino: it’s out there, but few have seen one in the wild. Within this category, I feel, are plenty of companies which have quite good distribution, meaning they are often widely available, but who seem to be easily overlooked when we’re talking about independent bottlers. Names like Deerstalker, Murray McDavid, Mackillop’s choice, or indeed, Hart Brothers.

Just to be clear: I’m not suggesting Hart Brothers isn’t well known or that their bottlings aren’t any good. I’m merely stating that, despite them being around for over half a century, they tend to not roll of the tongue quite as often as some of their peers. Despite their origin story of a company of blenders and bottlers dating back to the 19th century, and despite the fact that in its current form Hart Brothers have been around since 1964, and despite having released some legendary bottlings from legendary distilleries like Ardbeg, Littlemill, Springbank, Clynelish and so on… they seldom seem to be the centre of attention for many whisky folk. Now again, that’s an observation rather than an judgement on my behalf. Not making a big song and dance of what you do and when you do it but rather just get on with things is as good and valid a strategy as any other. When you got your business model straightened out and the numbers add up meaning the bills are covered with enough left to make both a living and have room left to invest in future schemes and projects, then surely each penny saved on marketing and presentation is as good as a penny earned. Hart Brothers, in my opinion, is one of those companies who are in it for the long game. When you’re going on 60 years of running a business, you’ve been around long enough to experience first-hand the highs and the lows, and given the fact that they are still around today, is proof enough that their business model is a sound one.

In a way, you could compare them to the whisky they’ ve bottled for today’s review. Tormore was founded in 1958 - around the same time as Hart Brothers in its current form, and from day one it seems as if there has been a no-nonsensical approach to making whisky, mostly catering to the needs of many a blend from their various previous owners. Despite there being something of an official core range (never seen it, never tried it, I will add), and despite it being quite a unique looking distillery, I’m pretty sure that to many, Tormore is about as obscure and under the radar as a distillery can be. That said, it looks as if all of that is about to change, as just last year Tormore was sold by Chivas Brothers (Pernod Ricard) to Elixir Distillers, in a deal which involved Pernod Ricard acquiring The Whisky Exchange. Therefore it seems as if Elixir owners Sukhinder and Rajbir Singh have pulled out of the whisky retail business altogether and are now firmly focussing on the other sides of the whisky business with both their independent bottler Elixir Distillers and 2 distilleries of their own – as apart from buying and expanding Tormore, they’re also building the Portintruan Distillery on Islay which is all but ready and is said to start production early next year. In any case, it will be interesting to see what lies ahead for Tormore, as part of the plan is to expand the impressive 4.8 mio LPA capacity distillery with a visitor centre, which I think is a clear indication that if it’s up to the new owners, Tormore will be looking to claim its spot in the limelights not before long.

Anyway…

Tormore 8 yo single cask (2013-2021). Hart Brothers. Marsala Hogshead, 50% ABV, NC, UCF, app. €55-€60

Nose

Bittersweet. Extremely grassy, herbal and heathery, up to a point where it comes across as a herbal infused liqueur even. Honey and vanilla. Let it sit and watch (and nose) it evolve towards a bit more of a mellow, floral driven experience. A drop of water and it mellows out further with a distinct vanilla note.

Palate

Similar to the nose. Again very herbal and liqueur like on the arrival. An oily – full mouthfeel with a slight effervescence touch . Some woodiness and hints of unripe white fruits from melon and banana sitting on a slightly spicy-peppery note. With the added water it became more fizzy, accentuating the wood.

Finish

Medium-long, drying and bittersweet.

Final thoughts

Well every cabinet needs to have the occasional odd one out, doesn’t it? That distinct liqueur like note (which does mellow out over time) may mean that a whisky like this could be a bit of an acquired taste to some, and although I’m not blown away with it, I do enjoy it, and I am more than happy to have this one in the collection. These a-typical whiskies are exactly what I like to stumble across now and again, as it shows just how broad a range of flavours and tastes whisky can deliver. If this can be regarded as representative of what future Tormore will taste like, I couldn’t possibly tell you unfortunately, as I feel as if the Marsala cask (think sherry and a solera cask system, but in Sicily rather than Spain) is making a mark here. Therefore I do plan on setting a decent sample of this one aside, hoping to be able to come back to it to compare it with an official expression, which I’m sure won’t be too long in the making. As for now I feel a solid and decent yet not overwhelming 82/100 will do.