Those we do not speak of, part 2: under the radar distilleries

It’s quite peculiar, when you think of it, that at a time when Scotch whisky is booming and thriving like never before, there are easily a dozen (if not more) distilleries that simply struggle to catch our attention. Now I’m well aware of the fact that not every distillery has ‘star potential’, and as such that’s not a problem. But, and here’s the paradox: despite the unprecedented boom we’re witnessing today, these under the radar distilleries are ‘struggling’ (if that’s the right word) even harder for their fair share of attention and appreciation. Because at a time when everyone is (rightfully) raving about Lagg, Raasay, Ardnamurchan, and so many of the other new kids in town, it seems it has become even easier to overlook those unsung heroes of the industry. Now you could argue that it’s just a case of yin and yang, as is the case with so many other things in life, because after all, you can’t have one without the other. So for every Ardbeg, Talisker or Springbank, there will obviously also be those workhorse distilleries. Those where official releases are far and few between, who ‘re quietly going about their business, providing mostly for blends and where we mostly need to rely on indie bottlers to get a sniff and a taste of their product. The other side of the paradox being that it’s exactly because of the current boom that we’re even able to taste these, because indies simply can’t all be bottling Ardbeg or Springbank or Arran all of the time. So it makes sense that as an indie you’ll be putting at least part of your focus on lesser known distilleries too. This, I feel, is where we are today.

Let’s rewind a bit. Looking at the Scottish whisky landscape in 2023, each and every one of those 100 or so still operating ‘traditional’ 19th and 20th century distilleries were initially meant to be workhorse distilleries – originally all of them catering first and foremost and primarily to the needs of blending houses, brokers and bottlers. You could even argue that, while single malt whisky has been around for quite a while, the concept of a malt distillery producing solely and purposefully for the sake of single malt whisky, is a new concept altogether. So, somewhere along the ride, some rose to the top, others were (deliberately) kept quiet about. Which begs the question: what is it that makes the difference between a celebrated, successful distillery and one working mostly in the shadows and under the radar of many? Quality? Availability? Marketing? Aesthetics? Visibility? Accessibility? ‘Provenance’ (whatever that may be)? Quite possibly it’s a bit of all of these, but even then there’s no denying that some are more ‘under the radar’ than others. Because even amongst those where official releases are not a common thing, there’s still a fair amount who, through time, built a bit of a dedicated following – the likes of Linkwood, Teaninich, Dailuane, Benrinnes, Longmorn, Blair Athol … And then there are also those who are left mostly overlooked altogether. Allt-a-Bhaine, Auchroisk, Inhgower, Kininvie, Balmenach, Tormore, Mannochmore… As it happens, I have a bottle of the latter two sitting in my cabinet and seeing how they fit the bill for this series nicely, those are the two I’ll be reviewing today and next week.

Mannochmore was very purposefully built by Scottish malt Distilleries (which would become part of Diageo later on) in 1971 to be a whisky factory more than anything else. Managed by the Haig company to cater for their blends, and with post war realism in mind, everything about Mannochmore was about efficiency. So no picturesque cozy little distillery, but rather a no nonsense architectural approach, which resulted in a building looking more like an administrative building from the Midlands than anything else. Its one redeeming factor is that it’s built on the same premises as Glenlossie distillery, and apart from sharing warehouses, for a number of years, they also shared staff who would take turns in running them for 6 months of the year each.

When it comes to official releases, you’ll need to look hard. As far as I know, it's still part of the Flora and Fauna range and then somewhere in the late nineties there was the now infamous ‘Loch Dhu’ black whisky. But apart from those and a few other limited releases, that’s pretty much it. So, almost inclined to say ‘once again’ here, it’s indie bottlers to the rescue!

Mannochmore 11 yo. Single Malts of Scotland Reserve Casks. Parcel No. 5 (2021 release), 48% ABV, NC, UCF, app. €50 - €60 (£45-£54)

Nose

Very gentle aromas of fruit (lemon, orange peel, kiwi, unripe banana, melon…), some viscosity with hints of vanilla oils and linseed oil. Hints of honey and vanilla adding some sweetness. A delicate herbal note from greenhouse and geraniums adding layers and subtlety.

Palate

A soft prickly- peppery note, honey, vanilla, sitting on again an oily mouthfeel. Fruity, with oranges and lemons, melon and grapes. A gentle and soft wood note developing into a bit of an umami note, with hints of creamy cheeses. If you ‘re into your Glencadams (who isn’t?), chances are you’ll love this too.

Finish

Medium long, drying-woody, with a soft spice touch.

Final thoughts

If whisky were a story (which it is) and Disney turned it into a movie where the likes of Laphroaig, Clynelish and Springbank would form some sort of superhero alliance, a distillery like Mannochmore could easily be dubbed the antihero. You can’t visit it, there’s little to no official bottlings available, let alone legendary expressions from days gone by, it’s anything but pleasing to the eye… it’s literally made to be left alone, to be going quietly about its business. It’s releases like these that also highlight the value and importance of independent bottlers. They provide us with plenty of opportunities to nose and taste things we otherwise would likely never even have access to, and while I understand it’s easy to be wayed by the latest releases of some of those more established and celebrated distilleries, this particular bottle is also proof that you shouldn’t judge a book by its cover. An ugly duckling by appearance it may be, but one with a few aces hidden up its sleeve. 85/100