The whisky year that was – part 5: my whisky of the year (and a bonus review)

What are the odds? I had more or less picked my ‘whisky of the year’ a good month or so ago, and unless something utterly and completely spectacular would swing by that would make me change my mind (e.g. the Springbank Palo Cortado I got to try at Spirits in the Sky might have been a contester, which -  alas - I couldn’t by, because, you know, it’s Springbank), I was dead certain that it would raise a few eyebrows. Then, all of a sudden, Dramface comes along and throws a rather impressive 9/10 at my pick for whisky of the year, and on the back of that, Roy put it in his line-up of 6 celebration whiskies to celebrate 6 years of the vPub, equally singing its praise.

Now, rather than feeling as if  the wind has been taken out of my sails, I am left with a sense of not only being confirmed and acknowledged in choosing this particular whisky, but also with a bit of relief, knowing that there might be something to this, ‘proving’ if you will that I’m not completely talking out of my own arse (well,not in this particular case, at least)  when celebrating it as my whisky of the year.

Also, it saves me the time to go into great lengths explaining things and we can pretty much jump straight into it. Isn’t that nice for a change as well?

Tomatin 18 yo (46% ABV, NC, UCF), oloroso cask ‘finish’. Paid around €87, RRP typically around €105-€115

Nose

All over the place, but in a good way: there’s richness from wood polish, toffee, sweet baking spices, clove, chocolate, and fruit notes from cherries and berries. Something oaky, but like a fresh-sappy wood rather than bitter and dry notes. A grassy element going almost into cola cubes. You can tell this has age, coming from deep notes of dried spices, but there’s something lively in there countering things, preventing this from coming across as just an ‘old malt’.

Palate

Deep and full arrival, without becoming overwhelming. Dark honey, raisins, treacle and toffee. Plums and chocolate, while the mouthfeel is leathery and oily. There’s a subtle yet distinct note of salinity as well, on the back of roasted wood and nuts. Just like on the nose, it shows depth and age as it’s bordering dark and intense, but also just like on the nose,  there’s a liveliness to it. Not to say this comes across as youthful, but something vibrant and fresh is found in the mix of flavours.

Finish

Medium long, and in any case shorter than you would expect from an 18 yo whisky that’s been partly matured in oloroso buts. Echo’s of deep sweetness shining tough, like a dark brewed tea, lingering alongside honey and wood.

Final thoughts

Purely based on flavour and enjoyment, I feel as if a few other whiskies I tried this year could’ve been picked as well when choosing a whisky of the year, but the Tomatin has the edge here, as it has managed (and keeps on managing) to take me on a journey. When I first opened the bottle, it was fairly straight forward. By no means a sherry monster, but those Oloroso casks were definitely leaving their mark. Once I got past the shoulder, it really started developing into this wonderfully rich, layered and complex beauty of a whisky. Frankly, I’ve grown a bit tired of those typically super sherry-heavy whiskies lately, but luckily this has developed into so much more. Now nearly halfway through the bottle, it’s as if I’m discovering new sensations and flavours with every visit. Depth, character, complexity, flavour, development: check, check, check, check and… check. Stunning whisky! 89/100 (and I feel I'm being a bit harsh here. If the finish would 've been marginally longer, this would have cruised its way into the 90 points mark!)

Don’t just take my word for it!

Dramface review here

Roy’s notes here (around the 65 minute mark)

Bonus review: another Tomatin, and a completely different animal at that!

Double V Tomatin 12 yo Private Cellar cask (4.5.2011 – 27.6.2023) 55.2 % ABV, NC, UCF, matured in a Koval bourbon cask. Bottled for the Green Door whisky club and The Whisky Barn. €85 and sold out

So, why this bonus review? I was given the remains of an opened bottled by Jonas, owner and proprietor of The Whisky Barn, one of my go to stores, on my latest visit (Q.E.D.: it pays to build a personal relationship with the people running and owning brick and mortar shops. In fact, it has become a bit of a habit to exchange samples between the two of us when I pop in). I want to review this because it’s such a completely different take on Tomatin, and therefore super interesting to put it head 2 head with the 18 yo, if only for the sake of contrast.

Nose

Floral (violets) and exotic fruits a go-go: mango, guava, papaya and a whiff of banana. Icing sugar, sweet cheese and cheesecake, whipped cream and crème brûlée. Tart, lemon meringue, dark honey and vanilla sticks. Wow! There’s so much going on here, but nothing is rushed or fighting for attention, rather it’s nuanced and layered. A drop of water alters things even further as I’m now picking up notes of candy and gum with sweet berries. Very, very impressive!

Palate

Slightly citric arrival, peppery hot and woody with dry grasses. In any case a bit closed wehn sipping neat. It really benefits from some water as all those wonderful exotic fruit notes from the nose are restored to their full glory.

Finish

Long, drying on wood notes and dry grass.

Final thoughts

The nose on this is simply exquisite. The palate is a bit less impressive, but that takes very little away from this utterly lovely whisky. I will say that it deserves a bit of a warmed up palate for it to  reveal all  it has to offer. With those fruit notes, it shares some similarities with the official 12 yo release, but the Koval cask really goes to town on this one, and the result is abslolutely lovely! 86/100

And with that, another series is  done and dusted. Stay tuned, as in December I’ll be looking at whiskies from the perspective that ‘older equals better’.

Now, this looks like a job for me, so everybody, just follow me, ‘cause we need a little controversy…