Review 223. Kilkerran triple distilled: a micro look at batch variation

I think we’ve all been there: we pick up a bottle, open it, pour it, enjoy it, and make a mental note to purchase another bottle somewhere down the line, only to be left feeling somewhat unfulfilled or  disappointed, if only ever so slightly,  when we do?  As a premise, let’s say that it hasn’t been aeons in between purchasing and trying both bottles, therefore more or less ruling out the possibility of a significantly altered palate or our memory playing tricks on us, and what we’re left with to explain why bottle 1 seemed more enjoyable than bottle 2, will likely be down to batch variation.

I’m not gonna bang on about the technicalities, as I’m confident most of you will understand what this is and what causes it.  Very broad brushed: malt whisky is by definition a batch produced drink and therefore pretty much every detail could impact the end result. Even if you were to computer regulate the entire malting, washing, fermenting and distilling process, you’re still pretty much left to the mercy of the casks as no 2 casks are ever completely the same. And with the state of the art ‘cask management’  programmes many distilleries use these days,  chances are close to nil that new make or (semi) matured spirit would be dumped in a downright rotten cask (after all: all those distilleries boasting how they only use ‘the finest quality oak to slowly mature the spirit’ would have you believe these casks were close to having supernatural powers, coming from an oak tree that grew in the Garden of Eden or something) but notwithstanding all the insights into organic chemistry, all the tech and quality control they can throw at it, what exactly happens with a spirit during maturation remains to this day a bit mysterious. And while I love soaking up all there is to know on how whisky comes to be (or rather read that as ‘I love soaking up all my limited brain is capable of processing and understanding), to not be able to fully pinpoint all and everything or break every little detail down to measurable and predictable processes, the romantic in me likes to believe  that’s actually quite a lovely little thing. It’s pretty much in line with Douglas Adams’ quote on life and the universe (albeit arguably  from a completely opposite angle): “Isn't it enough to see that a garden is beautiful without having to believe that there are fairies at the bottom of it too?”  

Don’t get me wrong: I’m a firm believer in science being the way forward as ‘to measure is to know’ and being able to calculate and measure stuff is pretty much what allowed us to shoot a rocket to the moon without it making a big, horrible dent in its surface, but when it comes to whisky, having that little bit of mystery surely only helps to appreciate it when we ravel and wonder about the flavours and textures just happily floating about in our glass.

What is interesting to see when it comes to batch variation, is how it’s something most distilleries tried (and still try) to avoid while others, mostly younger distilleries – embrace it to the fullest. Consistency  - or at least aspiring to be consistent -  is key to many and there is something to be said to try and recreate something over and over that stays true and identical to the benchmark  - a practice dating back to the times when blends ruled supreme in order to obtain a certain brand loyalty  from customers. Particularly bigger brands targeting big retail chains, relying on a significant amount of returning customers, having this (attempt at staying) consistent and constant profile is of vital importance.  Obviously  it’s still important to those catering more towards an enthusiast market, albeit probably more in  the manner of general quality control rather than aiming for consistency for consistency’s sake.

Then there are those who fully embrace the concept, the obvious example being Springbank who tend to not even stay true to a given ‘cask recipe’ for some of their core range releases (using the term ‘core range’ here in a rather broad way, obviously), an approach embraced by quite a few others – Kilchoman, Ardnamurchan, Edradour, Glenallachie, … Striving for a consistent quality and  for some of your core releases, also some sort of consistency in terms of flavour and texture, rather than  having the proverbial ‘straightjacket’ of trying to achieve consistency (which, I hope by now is clear, is a bit of an illusion in the long term as changes inevitably occur over time. Gradually and slowly, but inevitable none the less) allows you plenty of leeway to showcase what you have to offer as a distillery.

Kilkerran triple distilled (2023 vs 2024 release)

Glengyle, Springbank’s sister distillery, has mastered this ‘art’ of combining the best of the two worlds well, in my opinion; having built a core range with their 12yo, 8 yo and  16 yo that tries to approach some sort of consistency (mainly with the 12 yo) while not just  allowing but  fully embracing the concept of batch variation with their 8 yo cs releases and their Heavily Peated expressions. The most recent member of the family, their 16 yo, sort of sits halfway between  these, bridging things rather nicely.

Alongside these celebrated and revered releases, they also produce a very limited supply of triple distilled whisky.  They don’t produce a lot of the stuff (very little, in fact, and  I discussed this briefly back in December last year) so chances are you’ll almost never see this sitting on shelves as they tend to be so limited and possibly distillery exclusives. As it happens, I have two of these samples sitting in the cabinet. What makes this interesting is that, on paper anyway, the distillate should be quite akin. After all, the more you run spirit  through a still, the ‘cleaner’ it should become. Now triple distillation is still nowhere near anything resembling very neutral vodkas (some of which are distilled up to 7 times even), but nonetheless the new make of both of these  should be quite alike… again, on paper.

Kilkerran triple distilled 17 yo 2023 Open Day Release for the Campbeltown Malts Festival. 57.5 % ABV, secondary market fodder and therefore now app. between £200 and £250

Courtesy of the gentleman that is Aeror Macphault!

Nose

Fruity – mainly stone fruit like peach or apricot and a hint of citrus. Quite acidic – spur as well. A bit closed, so recommended to add water to let things open up. Things become a lot more outspoken and way more fruity now. A lot of berries and blackcurrant, some spice notes of clove, coffee (weirdly) and some salinity.

Palate

Again things start of rather closed as I’m mostly getting a peppery sensation. So with added water  it reveals a still somewhat subdues sweetness, clove and pepper. Dried fruit this time, with again (dried) apricot and perhaps some citrus zest. A shy fizzy element adds a pleasant touch.

Finish

Medium and drying.

Kilkerran 18 yo Triple Distilled 2024 release, 56.6 % ABV, refill bourbon casks (35 cl release for the 20TH anniversary dinner celebration)

Nose

Immediately there’s an umami farm – like element to this, while the combo of spices and fizziness reminds me of cola cubes. Fruity as well, with fresh berries, apricot and perhaps even some rhubarb. A pleasant salinity counterbalances the other notes and overall this suggests density, viscosity and complexity. Much more ‘lively’ than the 2023 release, but should you add water the fruit notes almost jump out of the glass.

Palate

Fizzy  - effervescent arrival. Somewhat feisty too and it has that farmyard – umami like note I found on the nose. Full yet somewhat dry texture and mouthfeel. It ‘s fruity too, but it’s not outspoken and more or less in the form of some general fruitiness, but it’s definitely salty. With adding water  there’s more farm notes and more pepper.

Finish

Drying and clinging, peppery and salty.

Final thoughts.

Whoever said that things become more gentle or mellow after 3 distillation runs, would be both right and wrong if you were to base that statement on these 2 whiskies. These two whiskies show similarities on a sort of ground level, but move in rather different directions from there on. Overall I feel I prefer the 2024 release as it’s more vibrant, more layered, showing more depth and complexity. While the 2023 release is absolutely decent stuff, I can’t help but feel it’s a tad too mellow or straightforward, and not necessarily recognizable as a Kilkerran. The 2024 release though  has so much going on while maintaining that almost understated way of delivering things, making it a very interesting, tasty whisky.  What’s striking is how these were likely both distilled during that 1 week of triple distillation back in 2006, so possibly they might well be from 1 and the same distillation batch, only to develop in quite a different way during maturation. What’s even more remarkable is how you’d expect the extra year of maturation  of the 2024 release to deliver a more rounded, ‘smooth’ whisky, while in fact the exact opposite occurred. Regardless of my personal preferences, what I like most about these releases is how they manage to emphasize and highlight yet again other aspects to the distillery character. I find it absolutely fascinating to see how Glengyle can deliver something subtle and delicate in the form of their 12yo, while also  boasting a loud and upfront whisky in the shape of their 8 yo . These triple distilled releases, not unlike their 16 yo, sort of bridge the gap between those, showing that if you’re willing to stray of the beaten path a little, you can keep on surprising not only yourself, but also your fanbase.