Pricy, but worth it, part 4: the try before you buy option

Ok, I’ll admit that this is a bit of a poorly chosen header. After all, it could (and should) be applied to many a whisky, particularly the one coming with a somewhat steep asking price.

But bear with me, and I hope it’ll make sense in a minute.

There are many possible reasons and factors explaining why a bottle of whisky costs what it costs. “Desirability”, “collectability”, “reputation”, “investment value” (washing my mouth with soap after this, I promise) are probably some of the more volatile and fickle factors at play, and definitely the less desirable ones from an enthusiast’s point of view. Luckily, prices for the vast majority of whiskies out there tend to be determined by a combination of taking production and overhead costs into account alongside the inevitable taxes and a healthy yet defendable profit margin for both producer and retailer, making for a transaction where every party involved is satisfied and content.  For me, living on mainland Europe, it means whisky is a by no means cheap, but all things considered still relatively  affordable passion of mine. Most distilleries are at a scale where they’ll be producing several hundreds of thousands LPA at least, and this scale of operation means production and overhead costs are spread out nicely and evenly across every bottle leaving the distillery (or bottling plant), ensuring a fairly reasonable RRP.

However, particularly amongst the new wave of 21st century producers, there are distilleries out there who are operating at a far smaller scale –  Dornoch (Thompson Brothers), Nc’Nean, Eden Mill and, you guessed it, Daftmill: all of them are currently producing between 10,000 and 100,000 LPA. Which means that production and overhead costs per bottle are a far more significant factor into the whole equation. Smaller outturns, by and large, mean higher prices. It’s the understandable and inevitable thing  if we want to see the producers actually earning a living from what they do. I think everyone will easily understand this economics 101. But, and here’s the thing, what if this small scale producer (let’s call them Daftmill for the sake of argument) also happens to produce something everyone wants a piece of? Indeed, the name and fame of Daftmill nowadays is such that everyone calling themselves a whisky enthusiast wants it – so much so that unfortunately there isn’t enough to go around. Add  a certain desirability to an already intrinsically high production and overhead cost, and there’s a good chance a less scrupulous retailer (or flipper) will feel the need to maximize the profit margin, leading to certain releases, or even entire brands, cruising its way into the unobtanium stratosphere. In the case of Daftmill you need to be willing to cough up north of 100 of your euros, pounds, dollars... for 12 year old-ish whisky to begin with, for reasons explained above. That is, if it’s available near you. If you find yourself in a position where you’re relying on the secondary market, chances are you’ll be doubling down and paying two or even three times the RRP.

Daftmill Summer batch 2023, 12 yo. 46 % ABV, NC, UCF, app. €140

27 1st fill bourbon barrels from Claremont Spring Kentucky), 6550 bottles

Overall, I feel that with Daftmill, prices or still more or less in check, which unfortunately can’t be said for Dornoch around here. Most of their bottlings (5 or  6 yo whisky, I will add), going for several hundred euro’s on secondary in my neck of the woods are sadly no exception.

Hence why I dubbed the final part in this series ‘try before you buy’. It’s a sound advice in any case, but even more so  with smaller outturn releases and  hyped and/or sought after bottlings. Last weekend, I had the pleasure of hosting a blind tasting for several Belgian Barflies, and as it goes, quite a few sample swapping was involved. One of them being this recent release from Daftmill. Needless to say, I’m super grateful for my fellow whisky botherers to share this one! I initially had something else in mind to close out the series with before I take a wee break for a few weeks, but sometimes you got to simply embrace serendipity and roll with it!

Nose

Lactic, fruity,  farm like notes and grassy. A bit like having a raspberry – vanilla  yogurt  on top of a very wet ball of hay, or something. Quite restrained, even a bit closed and definitely less outspoken on farmyard notes than my previous encounters with Daftmill.

Palate

Nice, full, lactic creamy arrival. An earthy, limestone,  chalk like element alongside hints of grass and again the farmyard element. Notes of coffee and treacle with perhaps a bit of wood charr to it. Medium full, dry mouthfeel.

Finish

Quite long, becoming increasingly woody and drying

Final thoughts

I quite enjoyed this one, but I’ll also be absolutely  honest: this is not my favourite Daftmill to date. Ok, my previous encounters are somewhat limited (think this is the fourth time I got to try Daftmill), but I can’t but feel this is overall perhaps too subtle, and I’m missing that rather bold and outspoken signature farmyard note here – the very reason why I was often left very impressed with Daftmill in the past and why I even picked them as my ‘representative’ distillery for all things Lowland last year.

That said, this more subtle approach makes for an intriguing malt without a doubt, and if you like your whisky layered and complex, this will not disappoint. Daftmill produces in smaller numbers, meaning  it comes in limited supply, and understandably prices are set accordingly. For once it’s not artificial price gauging (looking at you here Dalmore and Macallan) but an honest price for a scarce product. Obviously, I’m much more sympathetic and willing towards a producer like Daftmill, but regardless I still struggle somewhat  with the idea of paying 3 digits for 12 yo whisky. And to be fair on the product: that's down to me. I think Daftmill retails at a fair price. A steep, but fair price. I’m very happy to have tried this, but it is and will probably remain a ‘try before you buy’ whisky in my book.

See you all on the other side of the Easter break!