Older equals better, part 3 - waving goodbye to 2023

Where to begin? This will (partly) be a rather self-centred piece, although it’s by no means meant to be about me. Apologies in any case. I’ve been running this blog for some 4 years now. Don’t know if I should add ‘already’ or ‘just’ somewhere in the previous phrase, to be honest.

I know very little about things as S.E.O. (Search Engine Optimization),  can barely take a proper picture if my life depended on it and I’m utterly useless when it comes to graphic design or  lay-out work, so it’s very likely that even after 4 years I ‘m doing a lot of things wrong. In a way, you could say I’m the blogging version of Ralfy, albeit with *slightly less followers and views. This just to illustrate how this whole operation works. Although I love a good working and pleasing to the eye website (or video) as much as the next person, when it comes to my blog my focus lies firmly on the content, and I rely on the build-in lay-out tips and tricks of the website provider to do the ‘window dressing’ for me. Essentially what I’m trying to say here, is that there has never been a clear plan or goal when it comes to the whole Malty Mission thing. I’m  basically just another whisky enthusiast who started a blog about his passion. Partly because everyone around me grew weary of me rambling on about it, but mainly because I love to do it. Writing about whisky, that is. No goals, no greater strategy, definitely no ‘targets’, but just very happy and  appreciative of everyone who takes the time to pay this website a visit, read whatever it is I have to say, perhaps subscribe, or occasionally leave a like or a comment. In that regard, I’m not overly concerned  if it’s 50 people or 500 who pick up on one of my pieces. Sure, having a few hundred views is always quite  pleasing to the ego, it would be daft (and a sign of false modesty) to be claiming otherwise. And in an ideal world every half decent blogger or whiskytuber would receive their due attention and praise, and it stands to reason that you have to at least get some sort of recognition for the whole thing to be ‘meaningful’.  But at the end of the day, I am well aware of the fact that this blog is in no small matter a way for me to express myself, verbally and to a certain extent also creatively, rather than chasing increasing rates of views or something like that (Which, truth be told, wouldn’t be so hard. Write about the Ardbegs and Springbanks of the whisky realm, or rant about Macallan and the views will follow almost automatically – been there, done that).  Truth be told,  I would find it very difficult to change my ways to deliberately try and achieve those numbers. The blog is first and foremost a way for me to throw in my 2 cents and opinions on all things whisky,  and the fact that there’s some of you out there who pick up on that, frankly never ceases to amaze me. Not because I think what I write is rubbish or nonsense or too niche, but simply because I never take it for granted.

And as much as I love doing what I do, I can only do it and maintain it as longs as I enjoy it and have fun with it, but it doesn’t ‘define’ me as a whisky enthusiast. I hope that makes sense. Because, and here’s the little segue I was building towards to,  if I add everything up, the  blog is also a direct result, an extension or ‘consequence’ of my love for whisky, and therefore of my love and appreciation for the people in the whisky community. I would probably  still write down my thoughts and opinions on all things whisky, but if you lot would have proven to be  an obnoxious, self-righteous, annoying bunch of bastards, I wouldn’t even bother with the whole blog thing to begin with. Luckily, that’s not the case. Quite the opposite in fact. This community is very much about inclusivity, a welcoming and friendly bunch if ever there was one. Whatever the things are that separate and divide us, it’s our shared love and appreciation for whisky that binds us, and so far that’s always proven to be the bigger force at play.

So, sentimental reflections on the side, let’s wave goodbye to 2023 by talking whisky! Because it’s that time of year to be (self) indulging, I’m tackling higher age/higher end whiskies. I’ve started this series with the Bunnahabhain 18  - a whisky that used to set the bar for me in terms of affordable quality, but which is starting to flow out of reach, price wise, to many of us. Looking for a replacement, I tried a blended malt and a blend, but both just fell short as worthy alternatives.

So today it’s time to throw a couple more single malts into the equation, hoping at least 1 will provide the goods.

Ardmore 20 yo  (1996-2017), 49.3% ABV, 1st fill bourbon casks and ex-Islay casks (Laphroaig), NC, UCF, paid €114 (RRP around €125)

Ok, looking into a 20 yo official release from one of the more under the radar Highland distilleries might not be the obvious pick when looking for a replacement to one of the most celebrated distilleries in recent times. Particularly as this is from a distillery where official releases tend to be  few and hard between to begin with. Furthermore, this is a bit of  an older bottling, so that’s’ probably not helping either. But! I have a bit of a soft spot for Ardmore (even picked it as my representative for all things Highland when I did the series on regions back in March), although me holding Ardmore in high esteem is firmly based on some excellent indie releases I got to enjoy over the years. What does help the case for Ardmore, is that, should you find it, we’ve got ourselves a 20 yo official release here which they present to us naturally and at a very interesting ABV, for a very reasonable price of sub €140 in most markets.

Nose

Things start of as expected from bourbon casks. Citrus, vanilla and honey. Mild peat, oily and gently waxy too. I can’t but wonder how much of this was 1st fill bourbon and how much refill Islay casks, as it comes across noticeably younger than a 20 year old whisky. Not complaining, mind you, as it’s overall very pleasing on the nose. With a bit of water (easy does it) things turn sweeter with distinct notes of honey and figs, while the peat develops further as well, revealing an interesting earthy-umami like sensation.

Palate

Gentle peat and smoke notes. Citrus, soft sweetness from vanilla and slightly vegetal – herbaceous on a dry, oaky mouthfeel. Water brings more complexity as that peaty-vegetal note intertwines better with the fruit notes, bringing a bit more ‘harmony’ to things. Overall, still comes across younger than what you’d expect from a 20 year old single malt.

Finish

Quite long, vegetal, woody and soft peat notes.

Final thoughts

I wouldn’t go as far as stating this is an underaged whisky, but it’s definitely a 20 year acting like a 14 or 15 year old. Again, please don’t read that as a point of critique, but rather as an observation. What does ‘gnaw’ a bit, however, is that I would have liked for it to deliver a bit more depth and complexity.  It’s very enjoyable, but also, all, things considered, a tad straightforward and simple even. It lacks the ‘feistiness’ a young Ardmore can bring, but also the maturity you’d hope/expect to find in a 20 year old whisky.

85/100

OK, another one that came close, but unfortunately no cigar here either. Let’s see if Speyside can bring some solace…

Speyburn 18 yo. 46% ABV, NC, UCF, American and Spanish oak matured. App. €85-€95

These days, Speyburn tends to be on many people’s radar, but until a few year’s ago, they too were one of those ‘if you know, you know‘ kind of  distilleries. They first appeared on my radar around 2019 when I completely and utterly fell in love with a 12 yo single cask, and it seems they’ve been cruising their way into many peoples hearts, shelves and cabinets ever since. Not in the least because Roy has been declaring his love for their 15 yo on numerous occasions on the vPub (curious to see if it’ll finally make his ‘whisky of the year’, as last year it came very close only to be overturned by the Ledaig 18 in the final straight line). Speyburn is one of those distilleries equipped with worm tubs, and I feel it shows in the character of the spirit. Rich, yet subtle, complex, yet moreish. I definitely enjoyed my  previous encounters with Speyburn, so as a present to self I bought me a bottle of their 18 yo for Christmas.

Nose

Rich, with bags of sweetness and spices! Clove, nutmeg, vanilla , cinnamon, honey and brown sugar. Fruity, but more like blood oranges and forest fruit than typical sherry cask fruit notes. Also, I’m finding something ‘dusty’ in here,  a bit of a dunnage feel like you get from old books or long closed cupboards.

Palate

Again, a full-on arrival with wood and spices. So much so,  the sweet and fruit notes are pushed to the back a bit, making for a slightly bitter, yet pleasant first impression. With a drop of water, the sweeter notes are restored, bringing notes of chocolate and demerara sugar. All the while, the mouthfeel delivers an equally big and bold experience: viscous, full and rich, turning slightly dry. It does have that tannin thing going on (coming from the Spanish oak it was partly matured in, no doubt), and it does quite a bit of talking too.

 Finish

Long , dry and warming, with some wood  and a soft salty note.

Final thoughts

A rich, full and rewarding whisky, that might have benefited from some more complexity, although that’s a minor point of critique, really.  Overall this is very satisfying and morish. Of all the whiskies I’ve lined up against the Bunna 18, this might come the closest in terms of value for money. 86/100

Let’s broaden things even further and peak across the borders to see if there’s anything that should be on our radar, shall we?

Millstone 20 yo (2000 – 2020) Dutch single malt whisky. 51.2% ABV, PX  sherry butt matured. Outturn of 590 bottles. App €230 and possibly still some available

For the record: this review is based on a generous sample, presented to me for free.

Nose

Warming and very gentle with notes of chocolate, red fruit and lots of raisins. Some icing sugar, baking spices, cinnamon, clove and ginger. Reminds me a bit of ‘speculoos’ (spice cake). Rich, but oh so gentle and friendly, super inviting and simply delightful! Doesn’t really need any water, but should you add some, the spices almost come crawling out of the glass!

Palate

Warm arrival, slightly dry and spice driven. Warming again, with wood spice and warming oak. Some chocolate and honey and again lots of raisins with a hint of citrus as well. The dried fruit notes are more prominent with some added water and again the spice notes level up too.

Finish

Long, dry, spices and wood.

Final thoughts

A most excellent Millstone! Although this distillery is just about an hours drive from where I live, it can be hard to find their releases here in Belgium. Luckily, there’s no shortage of liquor stores just north of the border with The Netherlands, and I firmly plan to explore more from them in 2024. In my humble opinion, Millstone (or to be more precise: Zuidam) is one of those distilleries that could well be giving the Scots a good run for their money.  Without trying to be a copycat, they are delivering very good quality and have been growing from strength to strength in recent times. Yes, they may be harder to find in some markets, but should you come across it, make sure you have your phasers on buy. €225 is indeed expensive, but in  today’s market by no means excessive for a 20 yo, cask strength, and above all cracking whisky!

On that bombshell: thanks for tuning in and enduring the sometimes lengthy reads. I’m enjoying it, hopefully you are too, so I ‘m looking forward to push things forward in 2024. Malty out (for 2023)!