In Vino Veritas III – wine hard with a vengeance: Longrow Red 10 yo Malbec 2020 release, 52.5% ABV

Part 3 of my series on wine cask matured/finished whisky takes me to Campbeltown. Indeed, it’s rather ‘not done’ to be doing a series on wine cask influenced whiskies and not pay some attention to the Longrow Red series, as they seem to have become THE point of reference when it comes to wine cask matured whiskies. Red wine in any case. Ever since the first release in 2012 (yep, that long ago), Longrow Red almost instantly achieved cult status. On top of the already quite cult-ish status of Springbank. Springbank, the ‘whisky drinker’s whisky’, was –yet again- setting the bar rather high with these releases, and even the biggest wine cask hater couldn’t but admit as much. And truth be told, I think the combination of a (heavily) peated spirit laid to rest in wine casks can be brilliant. There’s something about the robustness of a bold and rich red wine that sits well with the earthy peaty and savoury notes. When done properly of course. And that’s exactly the sort of thing Springbank is pretty good at: doing things properly. One look at the history and mind-set of Springbank, should tell you pretty much everything you need to know. Going back nearly 2 centuries to 1828, they remain one of few distilleries still owned by descendants of the original founders. They were, for a long time, the sole survivor of the once blooming Campbeltown region. Despite having to close themselves for a decade in the 1980’ies, they helped revive Glen Scotia in 1999, which, in theory, means helping out a competitor, but as they employ some 80 (!) people (a lot of manual operation from malting all the way through bottling, and all done in-house and on-site), they know what ‘being embedded in the local community’ truly means. ‘Provenance’ is a word often used and abused by marketing folk, but in the case of Springbank it actually applies.

The ‘downside’ (if you can call it that) about being so connected to their community, is that, although capable of producing some 750,000 LPA, they often choose not to, as they don’t want to take financial risks and are determent to only produce quantities they know they’ll sell regardless of ups and downs in the market. So with whisky surfing a seemingly ever groping tidal wave at the moment, you can easily understand why the stuff can be a bit hard to find at times.

With regular Springbank/Longrow/Hazelburn releases being not exactly abundantly available as it is, the even scarcer Longrow Red releases easily and rapidly became one of those rather frustrating whiskies as well, making many whisky aficionados act like some overly obsessed Pokémon Hunter when a new batch was announced: Must! (But can’t!) Try! To! Catch! Them! All! Especially in recent years, each release seems to cause many a computer mouse to be driven to the point of destruction, as that ‘refresh’ button on the shopping cart logo from online retailers gets clicked with ever increasing frustration and despair. Which brings me nicely to paying my gratitude to James Burgoyne for sending me a sample of this. I’m given to understand no mouse, screen or keyboard was hurt in the securing of the bottle.

Nose: rich on red fruit, yet very well integrated with the peat. Not so big on smoke, but it has that meaty-nutty savoury note you’d come to expect (and demand?) from any self-respecting Springbank expression. Give it some time and a fruity sweetness takes centre stage (red apples and toffee apples, strawberry, berries and even something like plums) with some caramelized sugar and an oily sensation, which lead into a sweet musky note. A drop of water accentuates the musky funk driven by some overripe fruit. Already this is a crash course in ‘how to wine cask mature your whisky’.

I always love it when a whisky takes you on a journey and it’s no different here, as the palate takes me by surprise. Meaty and savoury upfront, quite the revers from the nose. Only then the red wine and overripe fruit notes roll in with a nutty undertone of chestnut and walnut. You’d figure this might be big and bold, but – despite this being a rich and busy whisky - the mouthfeel isn’t overly full and a bit dry. The peat again takes a step back as mid palate a peppery note demands my attention. But as on the nose, when given time the order and ‘fierceness’ in which the notes come and go change and develop, before it finally settles as a very fruit-driven dram. But! The drop of water again alters things as it accentuates the savoury and peaty notes.

The finish is rather long, drying and slightly spicy on pepper with an earthy peaty note .

This is indeed a big whisky, but it’ s by no means an overweight, brainless bully aiming to slap you around a bit. Instead it’s layered and nuanced. Complex too, but never difficult: it has a lot to offer, but doesn’t do it all at once. It’s like all the notes are politely waiting in queue to present themselves, but are cheeky enough to switch places every time you come back to it. This is so well integrated and sophisticated in the way it presents itself. Wonderful stuff!