Kicking off 2022 with 4 Speyside whisies
I can’t help but wonder how much longer independent bottlers Dràm Mòr will remain one of the best/worst kept secrets in the world of Scotch whisky. After successfully releasing their first ‘batch’ of whiskies back in spring of 2020, things have been a bit of a rollercoaster for this family run company. Receiving praise from enthusiasts and people in the industry alike for the quality of their releases of both whisky and rum (getting picked up and reviewed by the OG Ralfy himself), they also were taken to court by another indie bottler for the use of the word ‘Mòr’ – a case they won (and rightfully so, because, let’s face it, it would be a bit like Glenlivet suing every other ‘Glen’ distillery out there).
So, 2 years down the line, it’s fair to say they are leaving the stage of ‘starting to make a name for themselves’ as a new kid on the block, and are now well on their way to becoming a household name as an indie bottler. Typically, each whisky they release is a single cask (which they may or may not give a finishing for several months), bottled at natural colour and at cask strength. While that’s ticking all of the right boxes for the anoraks among us, it also means that there’s relatively little to go around – roughly somewhere between 250 and 350 bottles of each whisky. Take into account that they are broadening their horizons with new markets across the globe, and you’ll understand why these can be a bit hard to find.
Nevertheless and regardless of previous praise, in whisky it’s not unlike being in the world of cinema, especially when you’re a small player: you’re only a s good as your latest film (or in this case: whisky). This –lucky us– isn’t a bad thing by any means: when you’re a smaller indie bottler, basically every cask counts. When you’re catering to a niche market of enthusiasts who are, quite frankly, spoiled for choice, you’ll be making extra-special-double- sure every release is up to par. But selecting casks isn’t an exact science of course. Even if you try and select only the little gems-in-the-making and give them the proper TLC with optimal warehousing conditions, the end result isn’t always a given. Luckily (and this takes skill and knowledge as well) you can also tune in to the Billy Walker school of cask finishing magic and turn what is at least an above average quality whisky (usually from a refill cask) into excellent whisky by giving it a second maturation in another premium quality cask. Which, as it seems, is what Dràm Mòr have done for the most part with their latest autumn/winter release, as most of these bottlings come from refill ex-bourbon hoggies, finished in 1st fill casks, from Marsala to Calvados and Port casks.
So time to put their latest batch to the test and see what’s what. I’d like to make it clear that these samples were all provided to me by Dràm Mòr, for which I am of course thankful, but that doesn’t mean that they’ll automatically receive a favourable review. As the latest release contains 8 whiskies, I’ll split them up into two parts and cover the Speyside whiskies first.
Dràm Mòr Speyside Distillery 6 yo (2015-2021, 53.5% ABV, cask 2825, refill bourbon hogshead, finished in 1st fill Tawny Port Cask, 271 bottles)
On the nose, citrus and lemongrass first, joined later by orchard fruit (pears and apple). There’s honey sweetness and sugared cereal. A drop of water and the sweetness erupts.
The palate comes with a medium full mouthfeel. Again a sweet arrival, but also a peppery sharpness coming from the youthful spirit and the ABV. All the fruits from the nose are there, but they turn a bit more chewy and dense now, with hits of red fruit (dates and berries). With some added water the sweetness gets a grassy-funky touch. Surprising, yet interesting.
The finish is medium long and drying, with a salty and soft bitter note .
For a 6 years old, this brings a lot to the table. It’s young and it shows, but there’s a nice harmonious balance already. A fine example that young whisky can deliver.
Let’s move down the river Spey on to ‘the gentle dram’…
Dràm Mòr Tomintoul 15 yo (2005-2021, 55.1% ABV, cask 32, 2nd fill sherry but finished in 1st fill calvados cask, 254 bottles)
On the nose there’s a subtle, fruity sourness, and a lot of green apples, yet with underlying sweet notes.
The palate confirms the apple notes, and brings along a dry, cereal sweetness
The finish is dry, with a gentle sweetness that lingers and lingers.
You’ll need to forgive me this rather short impression. This is a very subtle whisky and therefore to me again very Tomintoul: there is always something there that I can’t quite put my finger on. It’s as if the subtleties of this distillery often elude me. Which is saying more about me than about them, obviously. I like it when a whisky leaves me puzzled a bit.
Moving even further downstream, next stop: Rothes
Dràm Mòr Glenrothes 9yo (57.4% ABV, refill bourbon, cask 3061, finished in a 1st fill Madeira cask. 292 bottles)
On the nose immediately there’s that signature buttery Glenrothes note (which I love). Sweetness from honey, peardrops and honeysuckle, countered by herbaceous and light spice notes and only then comes barging in the strong Madeira wine notes of strong spices, oak and caramel.
On the palate: caramelized butter leading to a salty sweetness (salted caramel bonbons ). Toffee, orange and chocolate and again all the herbaceous and spice notes. Quite a hefty one this, in terms of flavour.
The finish is medium long and completely dominated by a syrupy-toffee note with a dark, earthy leathery richness, slowly fading out.
I quite like this one, but then again, I’m usually a sucker for indie Glenrothes. The bourbon casks only really made a stand on the nose, as the Madeira is doing a lot of the talking on the palate and the finish.
Let’s call it a day by ending near the coast at the Moray Firth
Dràm Mòr Glen Moray 10 yo (2010-2021, cask 180, 54% ABV, refill bourbon hogshead finished in 1st fill Madeira, 273 bottles)
On the nose this is soft, round and sweet: strawberries and sweet wine lead the way. There’s almonds and sweet baking spices. Lush!
A full arrival on the palate. Viscous and oily, spices (ginger, aniseed/liquorice), roasted almonds and dark bitter chocolate. Even more lush!
The finish brings a salty sweetness and bittersweet spices, dark chocolate and herbal notes. Spices galore with something leathery/tobacco.
Lovely to see an often underrated distillery like Glen Moray taking the cake on this one. Very rich and rewarding. Strong and outspoken, yet very well balanced and easily accessible. I quite enjoyed the bourbon/madeira cask combo on the Glenrothes, but in the Glen Moray it works fantastically well! Top dram, this!
So for today I’ll leave it at these 4 (very different) Speyside whiskies. Stay tuned, for a round of Highlanders and a 24 yo Single Grain.
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