Dealing with Feis Ile Fomo, part 3: two 10 yo Laphroaigs

Laphroaig 10 yo cask strength, 60.1% ABV, batch 12, 2020 release, UCF but coloured, app. €80-€130

Carn Mor Williamson 10 yo (2010-2021), 47.5% ABV, NC, UCF, matured in Sherry Hogsheads, app. €85-€90

Laphroaig will always be a bit special to me. Their10 year old expression was my epiphany whisky. Quite a few moons ago, when I was at university, it was the first whisky that dropped my jaw, as until that point in life, I had never ever experienced anything like it. It was like tasting band aids from a hospital whilst sitting by a barbecue on a beach, frenchkissing an ashtray. All at once. And I loved it. For years on, I would happily switch up between Laphroaig (the 10 yo and the quarter cask) and Ardbeg 10 and I was a happy little camper, indulging in all things peaty and all things Islay. Eventually and inevitably, a decade or so later, peat fatigue finally hit me. Happy as was until that point going back and forth through my little peaty cul-de-sac, it was as if I finally found that hidden trapdoor that truly allowed me to take a deep dive into the rabbit hole of whisky. Many other whiskies, peated and unpeated, have touched my lips since. And while Ardbeg still makes returning appearances in my whisky cabinet, I think it must have been at least 5 years or even longer ago since I last bought a bottle of my once beloved Laphroaig 10 or its heftier sibling the quarter cask. The former had lost most of its charm to me, coming across as watery and flat - a consequence of how it is presented, but also because my palate and preferences evolved over time. The last bottle I bought of the quarter cask even felt like a bitter disappointment: peppery, hot and sooty, but all very one dimensional and without any real depth. And as said, it’s not just the whisky that’s changed, it’s us as well. Palates develop, tastes can change and evolve. So recognizing that fact is important I reckon, or you might well end up becoming one of those old farts complaining how everything was better in the olden days.

In any case, as I continued my whisky journey over the years, I pretty much disconnected with most of what Laphroaig is about. The expressions that could still tickle my fancy (The Lore, some of the Cairdeas stuff, the older age statements and indeed the cask strength version of the 10 yo) were often scarce in availability and quite pricy, not to say downright overpriced. Strangely, this disconnecting with what was once my greatest whiskylove didn’t really bother me. Usually I’m quite prone to nostalgia, romantisizing and musing about the past. But the fact that there are literally thousands of other fantastic whiskies out there (with some excellent -often indie- Laphroaig expressions along the way), made it quite easy to disengage and walk away.

Seeing how life can be a circular thing rather than linear, today I find myself back where I once started 20 odd years ago: with a couple of 10 yo Laphroaig whiskies in my glass.

Williamson Carn Mor 10 yo (2010-2021). 47.5% ABV, sherry hogheads matured, UCF, NC, still available for app.€85-€90

Nose

Even without putting my nose in the glass, the room around me fills up with a soft medicinal – fruity note. Upon closer inspection I’m picking up barbecue smoke, TCP, sweet-dark honey, raisins, figs and sultanas – all verging towards Christmas cake. Underneath there’s a salty-buttery note as well, followed by a sensation of overripe banana, caramel-fudge and dark chocolate. Throughout it all lingers a well balanced combo of peat and smoke. A very busy bee, and also absolutely wonderful.

Palate

An explosion of flavours burst out on the first sip. Peat and smoke, the whole array of dried fruits and Christmas cake, and weirdly a minerally, coppery note (yet nothing like sulphur). All of these in one big hefty attack on the tongue, with a peppery-prickly edge to it. A bit much to take all at once to be honest, so perhaps a drop of water will help bring out some nuances. Indeed: better balanced and layered, with the fruity notes in the front row now, while the smoke, peat and medicinal notes settle for a place in the back. Don’t add too much water, because despite the burst of flavours and sensations, it proves a bit delicate too, and might quickly disintegrate. Luckly it bounces back after a while, adding notes of caramel and chocolate.

Finish

Long, drying and smoky

Final thoughts

The nose on this one is really on another level. Initially the palate can’t quite live up to that, but given time and a careful dose of water it develops into a little gem as well (yet without reaching the high standard set by the nose). Overall, a very enjoyable dram, that could benefit from just a tad more complexity and development on the palate.

So, let’s see what the official 10 yo cask strength has to offer.

Laphroaig 10 yo cask strength. 60.1% ABV, batch 12, 2020 release. UCF, but also coloured, unfortunately (why?!). Depending on where you are this can be yours for anywhere between €85 and €135

Nose

Peaty and very sooty! Medicinal sweetness, mixed in with vanilla, honey and floral notes. Something minty – herbal, cereal and toffee.

Palate

Smoke, wood, peat, and quite fiery. This is north of 60% ABV after all. Definitely needs a bit of water. A soft wood bitterness, rich, well integrated vanilla and honey, sweet and sour apples, and more smoke and peat. Surpsrisingly, very easy on the tcp notes.

Finish

Gentle sweetness, ashy and long-lingering.

Final thoughts

Excellent dram! It’s a powerhouse, but with some delicate touches of herbaceous notes and sweetness to it. In short, it’s these kind of whiskyies which restore my faith in Laphroaig, as bot demonstrate just what it can bring. Yes, they are expensive compared to the readily available core range releases, but on the whole, I’d much rather spend twice the amount of money on one very good bottle of whisky than ending up with two bottles for the same amount that leave me wanting.

And with that another six month flew by and it’s time to take a much welcome break from Malty Towers! Enjoy summer, enjoy your vacations and I’ll see you back in August!