Well in with this little series on world whiskies, and my take has always been that there are lots and lots of interesting things happening all across the globe when it comes to whisky. Even if I’m cherry picking just the one distillery from each country I ‘visit’, I try and look at the broader picture as well and see what else is happening there. And while I’m fully aware that it’s very much broadbrushing, with a thick and hefty paintbrush at that, I do hope it sort of helps to broaden the horizon, my own first and foremost.
And depending on the swiftness of DHL, the next two weeks will either focus on two mainland European distilleries, or a European and an Asian one. In any case, I’m starting just north of my own border, as this week I’ll zoom in on Zuidam distilleries, arguably the best known distillery from the Netherlands when it comes to whisky. To help you out: Zuidam is the name of the distillery (as they also make liqueurs and jenever), Millstone is the name of their whisky (an obvious choice seeing how they partly use barley that was actually milled in an old school Dutch mill! – the image of it being represented on their labels). Back in September, I reviewed one of their recent peated expressions, and since then I’ve also been fortunate enough to actually visit the place, being given a very elaborate tour by owner, manager and master blender Patrick Van Zuidam himself. It far exceeded the run of the mill ( pun not intended) tour as me and my companion were given a look underneath the bonnet, and we sucked up as much information as possible as it was all coming straight from the horse’s mouth, so to speak. It made for an excellent afternoon, and the almost 3 hours we spent there chatting away with Patrick, being given the full length tour and sipping some wonderful drams just flew by.
Oddly enough, Zuidam doesn’t have a license to actually sell whisky on site (the Dutch legal system is rather complicated when it comes to the licensed sales of liquor), but Patrick has been more than generous, letting us leave with (literally) a handful of samples. So, for full disclosure: today’s reviews are based on samples provided by the distillery. The first is a sherry cask matured, 9 yo expression from 2019 (mostly sold out), the second a very budget friendly peated 4 yo youngster you can still find relatively easy.
It’s hard to fathom that Millstone has been around for nearly 3 decades now. Those first batches of 1996 distillate (the year they started whisky distilling – the same period as Arran!) have even achieved something of a cult status and having tried one of them at the distillery (a 27 year old expression from last year), I can see why. It’s absolutely mesmerizing, breath taking, gorgeous whisky, but understandably also rather expensive stuff. Depending on the expression you’ll need to cough up anywhere from €250 up to €500 for a bottle, and with all the stock of that 1996 distillate all but gone, it’ll likely only increase in price.
Although Patrick probably would never put this feather on his cap, I feel it’s fair to say that their success has paved the way for a lot of other Dutch distilleries. Recently, the Cley distillery (in Rotterdam) has been catching quite a bit of attention as they have successfully launched a funding campaign to help set-up and expand their distillery after releasing several well received (yet also quite limited and rather expensive) young whiskies, and with Bus Distillery which started out as recent as 2019 (and who pride themselves on being one of the most eco sustainable distilleries in the world) it seems the Dutch have got at least one or two other gems in the making. So just like the French, the Dutch and the Belgian distilleries, it seems that in the Netherlands as well, things are headed in the right direction. Unfortunately, it’s not all roses and sunshine. One of those other promising Dutch distilleries, Eagleburn, which started out as recent as 2016, called it quits just last year. It’s arguably the first of the new wave of distilleries that got stopped in its tracks after a series of financial setbacks related to the pandemic and the energy crisis. Even though they were well on their way of making a name for themselves, it very much reads like a story that unfortunately was through before it even started. It’ll be ‘interesting’ to see whether it’s an isolated, singular event (hopefully) or rather will go down in hindsight as a writing on the wall. But that’s enough doom and gloom for now, let’s focus on the drams at hand here!
Millstone Double Sherry Cask (2010-2019). Oloroso and PX cask matured. NC, UCF, 46% ABV. App. €60 on secondary and still some available.
Nose
Just from sticking my nose in the glass immediately after pouring I’m picking up a lot of nutty and buttery notes. Right up my alley! Nonetheless, I decided to leave it for another 15 or so minutes to allow it to breathe a little. Coming back to it, it’s more layered: dried fruits with a lot of raisins and figs, dark spices and Christmas cake. Those nutty and buttery notes are still there but I needed to dig them out, as they were getting buried by all the fruit and spice notes.
Palate
Big, round, bold arrival. Almost, yet not completely going full sherry monster even! Those were definitely not some shy, 2nd or 3d fill casks, I can tell you! Woody, with again the whole array of dried fruits (mostly from raisins and sultanas now) and berries. Notes of bitter coffee, treacle and some spice (ginger, clove and cinnamon), making for a full-on, dry mouthfeel.
Finish
Quite long and dry with spices and wood notes.
Millstone Peated Oloroso casks 4 yo (2016 – 2020), 46% ABV, NC, UCF, 2500 bottles. App. €35-€40
Nose
Gently smoky and peaty. Very nutty as well, with dried red fruit and chocolate fruit bonbons (Mon Cherie) to go with it. Despite the age statement, it doesn’t particularly show its youthfulness.
Palate
Lovely, rounded and balanced on notes of gentle peat intertwined with a sweet sherry cask influence, bringing coffee, chocolate, dried fruit and even a touch of wood. Youthful and playful, this is very much a ‘fun’ whisky!
Finish
Medium long with chocolate and soft smoke.
Final thoughts
With the double sherry cask expression, I feel the oloroso casks are doing a lot of the talking. Overall there’s a lot of emphasis on the casks here, although that Millstone character (to me I tend to find this liquorice like spicy sweetness in a lot of their whisky) always remains present. It’ s a busy and engaging malt, demanding of your attention. The 4 yo peated youngster is much more easy-going on all accounts, with a very pleasant and utterly enjoyable character, particularly on the palate. A ‘no nonsense’ approach to whisky, which makes it fun an unpretentious. While the older one clearly brings depth and complexity to the party, even at 9 years old, I feel it’s hard to argue with the fun factor of its 4 yo sibling. Now, as these are both sample impressions, gifted by the distillery itself, I won’t be handing out scores, but suffice to say both are quality expressions from one of the more interesting distilleries on mainland Europe.
And with that, we’re almost done with this little tour around the world. As said earlier: we’ll either conclude next week by going to Taiwan, or keep it closer to home and go south of the border (to me, anyway) and discuss a French whisky. Stay tuned, why don’t you!
Excellent review of a brand I have been very curious about. I'm amazed they are 30 years old, but those years have certainly contributed to their skill in delivering what sounds like excellent whisky at a fair price. Thank!