Around the world in 80 drams or less, part 3: meanwhile, in Australia

In the build-up to a series such as this  - series where I step away from what I usually do (talking about and reviewing Scotch single malt whiskies), I sometimes burden myself with the reflection on how ‘meaningful’ these little ‘side quests’ actually are. I’m fully aware that broadening the horizon by discussing just one from a multitude of options from other whisky countries is nothing less than downright cherry picking, meaning you couldn’t possibly draw any sort of general conclusion from it.  Just like you couldn’t make any valid statements about ‘Scotch’ as a whole by trying just one bottle of whisky. Luckily, this feelings often sort themselves out, because for starters I know no one expects these sort of big conclusions about the state of whisky in country X/Y/Z based on just the one review and furthermore it would be a sure sign of an enormous (and completely unjustified) feeling of self-importance on my behalf, should I have the pretention to claim otherwise. So any of those big claims will have to wait – presumably until I’m revealed to be the long lost son of the sultan of Brunei. That, and some high tech bio lab is willing to grow me an infinite amount of spare livers. Until further ado, let’s just settle for a  nice bit of whisky reviewing and enjoy that for what it is.

When talking about Australian whisky as a category, we  tend to assume that it’s very much a 21st century thing and therefore still in its infancy.  Nothing could be further from the truth, however. I can only encourage you to pick up the 2024 edition of the Malt Whisky yearbook, as the opening article is dedicated to Australian whisky: where it comes from, where it is today and where it’s heading. And just like it would be nonsensical to throw each and every bottle of Scotch single Malt on one pile and leave it that, it’s also quite clear that you can’t do the same with Australian whisky. Sure, the cliché dictates that Australian whisky will be young because it’s hot down under and also that it ‘ll be matured in wine barrels,  because of the thriving Aussie wine industry, but that’s just cutting more than one too many corners. I’m by no means an expert on the subject, but I do know there’s this place called Tasmania. Despite it only being some 160 miles (250 km) from mainland Australia,  the Tasmanian climate differs drastically compared to most of Australia's , and is actually quite  akin and comparable to Western Europe, with a distinct maritime influence  and mild temperatures, both in summer as in winter. And while  the up and coming Starward Distillery, located in Melbourne (hot summers: check! wine casks: check!) , might well be one of the more familiar names these days (not unlike Glenfiddich or Glenlivet in terms of recognisability when talking Scotch) , a lot of the other names likely to ring a few bells – Lark, Sullivan’s Cove, Hellyers Road and, indeed, Overeem Distillery are all to be found on Australia’s 'little sister' Island. And little is of course relative as well, seeing how Tasmania is roughly the same size as Scotland.

Overeem (Old Hobart Distillery) Port Cask Matured single malt whisky. 60% ABV OD  cask 352

Overeem Distillery dates back to 2007. Initially named ‘Old Hobart’ after Tasmania’s capital, the Overeem malt (named after founder Casey Overeem) quickly made a name for itself as one of the up and coming Australian (or should I say Tasmanian) whiskies. In 2014 it was acquired by Bill Lark who, given the success of his own namesake distillery, was looking to branch out. In 2020 the distillery was bought back by Casey’s daughter Jane but without the equipment however, so production started at a new distillery named Overeem. With two relatively small stills (an 1800 L wash still and a 800 L spirit still), I’m assuming they’re catering mostly to the domestic market.

However… One of the benefits of being part of a community that stretches to all corners of the globe is that you’re able to connect with people from all corners of the globe. One such person is Glenn Duncan, who I am sure is no stranger to many of you. And not only is today’s review courtesy of a sample he was willing to send me a while ago, he recently also pointed me to a very interesting little  interview with Bill Lark, generally considered the godfather of modern Australian whisky, explaining how Australian whisky goes back all the way to the same era as the birth of licensed Scotch whisky  in the early 19th century! It makes for an interesting and compelling tale of what might have been, if Australian whisky wouldn't have been stopped in its tracks by what can only be described as a series of unfortuante events.

Nose

Sweet wood notes, lots and lots of red fruits with strawberry and raspberry, with a touch of rhubarb revealing a soft herbaceous element underneath. Gentle and easy-going, this brings everything you would hope to find in a good port cask matured whisky. Also, if smells had a colour, this is as pink as Barbie’s outfit.

Palate

Now the ABV shows! 60% is nothing to be  sneezed at. Basically, sweet and hot is all I’m getting, so a fair amount of water is definitely due here. It sure helps to bring in the nuances. Fudge, toffee and dark honey, meaning the red fruits from the nose settle for a seat in the back. A super oily, chewy, mouthfeel, reminiscent of wood polish closes the deal.

Finish

Long, bitter chocolate, wood and drying towards the very end.

Final Thoughts

According to the MWYB, all of Overeem’s whiskies are matured for a minimum of 5 years (whereas the legal minimum for Australian whisky is put at 2 years of maturation). Given the dramatically different climates between Tasmania and mainland Australia, I could see why this this makes sense. This whisky in any case comes across as youthful (in a good way), with a very nice balance between cask and spirit. Port cask matured whiskies can be hit or miss in my opinion, but this one is by no means a dud. It's big and bold, but in a very gentle and overall absolutely enjoyable manner. Having said all that, and I mean this as an observation rather than criticising it, to my mediocre palate  it’s not particularly distinguishable  from port cask matured Scotch whiskies I’ve tried. You could of course also argue that such a thing is a compliment regarding its quality, something  to which I would only nod in agreement.