Are Regions Really Rubbish? Part 3: Campbeltown.

After treading on thin ice a bit in last week’s virtual visit to the Lowlands, I’m back on steadier and more comfortable ground as the next region in this series is Campbeltown. For the time being, there are only 3 distilleries to choose from, which should make the choice more straightforward to say the least. Without a doubt, a Campbeltown single malt will be high up many whiskylover’s hotlist, and yet, it seems, it has been a close shave for Campbeltown whisky to be even around today. Whereas my previous picks (and future ones, for that matter), are at the very minimum up for debate, I feel there is actually some solid, historical background to state my case of this week’s pick.

Once the beating heart of Scotland’s wiskyindustry, it was in steady decline in the last decade of the 19th century and for the better part of the 20th century as well, as the number of Campbeltown’s distilleries systematically dropped from well over 30 to just 2. The reasons, as you probably know, are never simple or straightforward but rather a combination of factors leading to this region’s demise. Located in the ‘longest cul-de-sac’ of Scotland, the Mull of Kintyre, this remote area enclosed by Northern Ireland, Arran and Islay, boomed in the 19th century as ‘herring capital’ of Scotland, and probably the UK and even Europe as well. Economically buzzing, the town became attractive for other endeavours as well, especially for whiskymaking after the 1823 Excise Act as the Duke or Argyll jumped on the opportunity of licensed distilling to promote and facilitate the industry, as it would stimulate employment in no small matter.

As a result, no less than 29 new distilleries saw the light of day in the 20 years following the 1823 Excise Act, and at its peak, no less than 35 distilleries were operating. Quite surprising, considering its remoteness (it’s a 3 hour drive from Glasgow to Campbeltown, and that’s with todays 21st century technology), but a direct steamship line and the plentiful availability of coal made it easy to overcome those barriers. Little wonder then, that when the famous Alfred Barnard visited the area in the 1880’s for his epic tome Whisky Distilleries of the United Kingdom, he called it a day after touring no less than 21 distilleries, deeming Campbeltown ‘Whisky City’.

What happens next, however, reads a bit like ‘a series of unfortunate events’, and truth be told, many Campbeltown distilleres shot themselves in the foot as well, as in the wake of the more successful, highly praised distilleries, many followed going for the quick buck, trying to cash in on the reputation by releasing inferior muck. This damaged its reputation in no small matter, while, adding insult to injury, the often heavily peated Campbeltown whisky became increasingly ‘out of fashion’ with blenders who were looking more towards the softer, fruitier style of the new booming place to be – Speyside. To make matters worse, Prohibition hammered another nail into Campbeltow whisky’s coffin, as the town heavily relied on the once thriving export markets in the US. The closure of the local coal mine in 1923 was pretty much the final straw.

Together with the perishing herring industry, the downfall of Campbeltown whisky meant a devastating blow. One that was felt even a century onwards, as it led to seriously harsh economic times, which resulted in a steady decline in population (which dropped to around 6000 about a decade ago) as younger people moved away as there were little to no job- or, for that matter, life prospects to be found. Celebrated and revered as it once again may be today, the new found self confidence of the region is still young and fragile. 100 years of economic hardship, multiple generations finding out the hard way what it means to struggle to make ends meet, is not easy to forget, nor shake off.

Now, why am I giving you this little history lecture? Because, I feel, a minimum of (admittedly broad brushed) background here helps to give some essential context, which imo is vital to understanding the what’s what of my pick for the ‘quintessential’ Campbeltown whisky.

Springbank 10 yo (14.7.2022 release) 46% ABV, natural colour, UCF, 60% bourbon, 40 sherry cask matured. ‘Readily’ available for anywhere between €65 and €85

A lot of what Springbank is and does as a distillery, but also as an employer, can only be understood if you look at where Campbeltown, both as region and as town, comes from. Founded in 1828 it had definitely seen ‘the good times’, but as one of only two survivors of the once booming Campbeltown whisky scene, it sure witnessed, experienced and, despite two periods of being mothballed, survived the harsh times as well.

It explains why it insists on quality control from grain to glass and barley to bottle: maintaining 100 % in-house malting is a deliberate decision not only to safeguard quality, but also to safeguard local jobs. Take it further and you’ll see why it has its own bottling plant and why, by and large, Springbank relies on manual labour. Springbank are deeply rooted in and embedded with Campbeltown, and it doesn’t stop at the gates of the distillery. It also explains why in 1999 they decided to have staff help out with operating Glen Scotia, Campbeltown’s only other remaining distillery, when it was all but game over for its ‘competitor’. It explains why they invested in re-establishing a sister distillery in Glengyle (saving the name ‘Campbeltown’ as official whisky region in the process), and it explains why every decision is made with the local community and its surroundings at heart, taking considerable care to protect what they’ve built, even if that means that despite increasing demand, they are determined in making sure they don’t overproduce – frustrating as that may be for many whiskylovers who are currently left empty handed, yearning for a drop of the precious ‘whisky drinker’s whisky’. It explains in short why Springbank is, if not our favourite whisky, then at the very least our favourite distillery!

And with that little declaration of love, let’s sip some whisky.

Nose

Oranges and lemons, hints of briny notes and salt, something dusty (cereal/corn dust), all against a very subtle, shy peat note. When it opens up, it showcases a lovely mixture of vanilla ad strawberry, but all is restrained from becoming overly sweet. Distinctive, yet also delicate.

Palate

Effervescence on the arrival. The Campbeltown funk is more outspoken with a clear farmy-funky like touch. The mouthfeel is woody-dry, while the vanilla note transforms into an ever so gentle lactic sensation. The peat remains soft, with a gentle saltiness to it. Towards the back it turns oily-viscous, with notes of more vanilla and citrus.

Finish

Long, lactic, and towards the end increasingly drying with echoes of wood and peat.

Bonus review

Springbank 13yo Green (2015 release) 46% ABV, natural colour, UCF, matured in sherry casks, 9000 bottles. On secondary now for anywhere between €400 and €500

As I had a sample of this one sitting in the cabinet (thank you Desie!!), I figured why not throw it in here alongside the review of the 10 yo. If anything it would make for a nice little comparison between the two, but I’ll also take something from this in my final thoughts

Nose

Funky and dirty. A mixture of vegetal and herbal notes with darker, roasted notes of caramel and coffee. Salty (crackers) sitting against sweeter notes of honeycomb. There’s peat, intertwined with a sappy – green note and, surprisingly, a faint note of spiciness resembling a rye whisky.

Palate

Dirty-oily and visocus arrival, as well as a bit prickly. Again, there’s that dark-roasted note of coffee and caramel mixed in with vanilla and sweetness.

Finish

Medium long and salty.

Final thoughts

The healthy condition in which Campbeltown whisky finds itself today, is also an indication of a renewed and retrieved confidence. Springbank and Glengyle simply can’t keep up with demand, and, all things considered, that’s a positive rather than a negative. A frustrating one from the point of view of the enthusiasts, but in the long scheme of things, it might well be the best guarantee that there will still be Campbeltown whisky if, somewhere in the future, the levee of the current whisky bubble breaks. Glen Scotia is rapidly winning hearts and minds as well. With folk like Michael Henry and Iain McAllister a the helm, and with owners who are actually willing to listen to what they have to say, we are witnessing this distillery rapidly making a name as a force in its own right, no longer having to settle for the title of ‘that other Campbeltown distillery.’ The renewed self confidence also attracts new prospects, as at least two new distilleries are in various stages of planning. In short: things are looking good for the future of Campbeltown whisky.

As for the whiskies, I hope that, based on the above, it’s clear and obvious why Springbank 10 deserves to be dubbed ‘quintessential’ when talking Campbaltown whisky. Yes, the 13 yo Green is good, but a tad straightforward and lacking some of the complexity the 10 yo has to offer, and on the whole it shows less balance. It’s still a good whisky (it’s Springbank, lest we forget!), but if anything it’s also testimony that limited releases are by no means automatically better than core range releases (take note, you Ardbeg groupies). I’m really glad I got to try it, but paying hundreds of euro’s/pounds/dollars for this on secondary, is borderline insane.

The 2022 10 yo is absolutely wonderful. You could argue that €65 for a 10 yo whisky is a bit steep, and you wouldn’t be wrong. Therefore I’m judging and comparing this whisky with its peers, not in terms of age, but in terms of price. And truth be told: it’s well worth the money. It’s a masterclass in subtlety and balance. It brings a wonderful complexity, literally from start to finish, yet it’s never difficult. Springbank has the ability to excel in many different casks in my opinion, but overall, when it’s primarily matured in ex-bourbon casks as it is in this case, the results are delightful. It has that typical, almost understated presentation and delivery of flavours, with the Campbeltown funk signature tuned down, while very subtly but undeniably having its impact, steering and lifting the rest of the whisky. Beautifully integrated, wonderfully balanced, and ‘very’ Springbank. 88/100